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BBE Editor's Pick

Piccolo Venice

5 Dudley Ave., Venice   map

BBE 5-course chef's tasting menu ($45)

Details: BBE price: $45 per person (savings of 58-60% off depending on dishes ordered); see menu below review; available nightly for dinner; no minimum purchase for those in the party who do not purchase the BBE tasting menu; max party; 8; dine-in only; not valid on DineLA or with any other discounts or promotions.

Special expires for VIP members at close of business day on: Aug. 18, 2013   upgrade to VIP today!
Special expires at close of business day on: July 18, 2013

1 day, 8 hours
Piccolo Venice
By Todd Cohen
Whether it’s the flicker of the romantic fireplace or the sea-kissed Pacific air, this bellissimo go-to recalls those seductive Italian restaurants of yesteryear, when a sumptuous bottle of red wine was the best analyst money could buy and conversations about properly cooked pasta were at the root of all love and war. It’s that timeless touch that lures loyalists to make a weekday 405 crossing to this classic-yet-mod dining room, complete with high ceilings, chocolate wood floors, and a semiprivate wine nook that’s been known to impress a date or two. But just labeling this gem as tall, dark, and handsome would be superficial. Not if you can craft such a perfectly punchy monkfish tortelli or a gorgeous and gooey buratta ravioli. With the utmost pride, an authentic staff likely imported from the canals of namesake Venice presents you with every sliver of house-made venison carpaccio and every bite of hand-rolled penne with braised rabbit ragú. It’s easy to understand how one visit can prompt a gastronomic salute to Venice—CA, in this case.

BBE 5-course Tasting Menu

first course (choose one)
Crudo (venison carpaccio, marinated shimeshi, grappa-blueberry emulsion)
Pomodori e burrata (heirloom tomatoes, imported burrata, basil, Larino olive oil)
Conchiglie (marinated sea scallops, sea urchin, lemon-thyme pesto)

second course
Plin (fontina filled ravioli, parmesan-butter sauce, summer truffle shaving)

third course (choose one)
Agnolotti (oxtail filled agnolotti, slow-roasted oxtail sugo)
Garganelli (hand-rolled penne, braised rabbit ragú)
Pappardelle (wide squid-ink pasta, baby octopus sugo)

fourth course (choose one)
Anatra (pan-roasted duck breast, caramelized pears, white port sauce)
Tagliata (seared natural Australian kobe N.Y. steak, lemon-thyme pesto, maldon salt)
Branzino (baked with grilled eggplant, roasted tomato-saffron sauce)

fifth course (choose one)
Bignole (valrhona gianduja chocolate filled pastry puffs, double dipping sauce)
Bianca (white chocolate mousse, orange gelée, orange chips)
Tortino (ricotta and mascarpone torte, saffron coulis)
Semifreddo (amaretto cookies, soft-frozen cream, amaretto caramel
Cupola (milk chocolate mousse, vanilla crème brûlée)
Bicchierino (mascarpone cream, chocolate ganache, nougat, espresso savoiardi)

... on the side

ghosts from the past
If you find the compact quarters intimate, think about this: a remodel nearly doubled the restaurant’s overall size, from 24 to 48 seats, making it all the more accessible and, of course, slightly less piccolo.

hours

Sun.–Thu 5:30 PM–10:30 PM; Fri–Sat 5:30 PM–11:30 PM

price range

$20 (tagliolini) to $44 (New York steak)

5 Dudley Ave. (at Speedway), Venice, CA 90291; 310-314-3222   map   www.piccolovenice.com $$$


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