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BBE Editor's Pick

Dar Maghreb

7651 W. Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles (Hollywood)   map

Dar Maghreb
Marked only with the name Dar Maghreb in subtle metallic Arabic script, the facade of this 35-year-old Moroccan restaurant is plain white. The Moorish-style interior, though, is pure opulence. These palatial surroundings are famous among Angelenos and for good reason: it's an undeniably wondrous experience to walk off Sunset through the low-key exterior into the restaurant's stunning mosaic-lined courtyard. Once inside, diners are presented with a traditional, regal Moroccan feast. Servers and entertainers -- AKA belly dancers -- wear decorous costumes. Deep velveteen couches surround low tables. The prix-fixe menu is served family style and without personal plates or utensils (hands are washed at the table before the meal). Themed restaurants are typically a red flag for foodies, suspicious that the spectacle somehow masks inferior cooking, but at Dar Maghreb spiced meat and triple-steamed couscous steal the show. Lemon chicken and slow-roasted honey lamb shoulder are both so tender they are served with only a spoon. Flaky b'stilla, or chicken pie, laced with cinnamon and powdered sugar, challenges Western notions of sweet and savory in the most delicious way.

menu musts

B'Stilla (flaky pastry shell stuffed with chicken, almonds, eggs and spices)
Tagine de poulet aux citrons (chicken with pickled lemon rinds and olives)
Lahm mrouzia (braised lamb with honey and prunes)

sweet seats

There's not a bad seat in the house, but depending on your mood you can choose to reserve a table in the more rustic "Berber" room, named for a mountainous region of Morocco, or in the more urbane "Rabat" room, named for the country's capital. Preference or not, be sure to call ahead for a reservation.

chew on this

Built in 1974, all of Dar Maghreb's marble and tiles come from Spain and its woodwork was done in Casablanca.

hours

Mon.-Fri. 6-11 PM
Sat. 5:30-11 PM
Sun. 5:30-10:30 PM
open for lunch for special parties with advance notice

price range

$37 prix fixe (seven courses including soup and dessert)

7651 W. Sunset Blvd. (corner of Sunset and Stanley), Los Angeles, CA 90046; 323-876-7651   map   www.darmaghrebrestaurant.com


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