Kurt Gutenbrunner is the guy who convinced New Yorkers they couldn’t do without Austrian food when they didn’t even know they wanted it in the first place. At places like Wallsé and Blaue Gans, the downtown café vibe (music by Lou Reed) was driven by unexpectedly snap-to service worthy of the Hotel Imperial. Café Kristall, which occupies one side of the new Swarovski boutique in SoHo, is yet another take on Old Vienna—a rather lavish one, where the pink-frosted torte in the display case almost outshines the crystal next door. But the mirrors and shimmering lamé-covered ottomans are merely whimsical takes on bejeweled luxury—the menu is the real gem here, similar to Wallsé’s. Buttery flavor coats each piece of tiny shrimp and broccoli, seeping deep inside the fluffy spaetzle, with which they share a bowl. The crisp breaded crust on a Wiener schnitzel, pounded so thin it almost overflows the plate, explodes with meaty juice; a puddle of lingonberry provides cool relief. Chicken strudel with marinated leeks and sour cream might seem rich enough for dessert. A lunch or early dinner at Café Kristall is all about playing dress-up and relaxing after a mad shopping spree, but with a wink that acknowledges this food shines with no need for smoke … or mirrors.

Spicy goulash soup
Spaetzle with shrimp and broccoli
Wiener schnitzel with parsley potatoes
Chicken strudel, marinated leeks, sour cream, chives
Smoked salmon sandwich, cream cheese, scallions
*menu changes seasonally
view full menu here

All the tables are about the same in the bright, narrow, and glittery space, where the ceiling feels cathedral-high. Downstairs, the private lounge sports sultry photos of Marilyn Monroe and Audrey Hepburn.

One of the first things you’ll spot when walking into the restaurant is the 500-pound columnar chandelier that plunges through the well of the staircase to the lower level. It is by Swarovski—of course—and you can order one for your own palace. (Inquire within, as they say.)

breakfast: Mon.–Sat. 9 AM–11 AM
lunch and dinner: Mon.–Sat. 11 AM–9 PM; Sun. 11 AM–6 PM

$8 (spicy goulash soup) to $28 (venison loin)