When a restaurant in LA goes for a New York feel, the results usually fall flat. But for more than 60 years, Dominick’s in West Hollywood has neatly managed the trick, turning out classic Italian red-sauce cooking in a space with authentic Big Apple touches like Thonet bentwood café chairs, black and white tile floors and red-leather wraparound booths. The former Rat Pack hangout (the place opened in 1948) got a jazzy update in 2004 courtesy of new owners Warner Ebbink and his chef-partner Brandon Boudet, who also own 101 Coffee Shop. The pair understood that the draw here is something you can’t manufacture: a rich history laced with a cool, laid-back swinger vibe. With all the exuberant atmosphere, you hope the food matches up. It does. The tangy, tender meatballs are the size of grapefruits, and every salad comes perfectly dressed. You can count on evergreens like hanger steak and pastas. So order up a highball and give yourself over to Sinatra for the night. Here, it’s fun to be part of the pack.

Italian wedding soup
Cedar-smoked trout and beets with crème fraîche horseradish
Spaghetti and meatballs
Ricotta gnocchi with tomato, basil and Pecorino
Grilled hanger steak with arugula and Parmesan
view full menu here

The comfortable red booths inside are great for an intimate dinner, but nothing beats a spot by the mammoth fireplace that anchors the huge glass-covered back patio. There’s also an uncovered side patio with a few tables, a couple of leather lounge chairs, an herb garden and fruit trees if you want to hide away.

In August Dominick’s ventured into brunch, and as anyone who has eaten at 101 Coffee Shop knows, this is good news. Need something to wash down those blueberry-ricotta pancakes? The $11 bottles of Prosecco are a steal.

Sun.–Thurs. 6 PM–12 midnight; Fri.–Sat. 6 PM–1 AM
brunch: Sat.–Sun. 9 AM–3 PM

$14 (fettuccine with English peas and prosciutto) to $38 (12 oz. prime New York steak)