Yes, the group next to you is speaking Italian. (Yes, you saw them in Vogue last month, but in one of the European editions.) They’ve just flown in from Milan and are dining at Barbacco—rather chic and skinny itself—a place serving killer small bites of Italian food that fly out of the kitchen to an eager crowd seated at long communal tables. A simpler, casual version of its sister, Perbacco, just a couple of doors down, Barbacco feels so urban, so SoHo (New York or London). Start with some house-made salumi, especially the sublime finocchiona (fennel sausage). Lasagna Bolognese is typical of most of the dishes here—so beautifully balanced and surprisingly light you’ll want to return to eat it the very next night. The restaurant also fuels a happy lunch crowd, with takeout another option. Go for the meatballs, but be warned: The Sicilian version, studded with raisins and pine nuts in a thick tomato sauce and resting on braised chard, will have you dozing at your desk.

Roasted beets, Gorgonzola, toasted almonds
Chef’s selection of house-made salumi
Lasagna Bolognese with spinach pasta
Polpette (Sicilian meatballs) view full menu here

There are seats in the bar, but go for the communal tables, where you can easily eavesdrop on the most delicious gossip—if you speak Italian, that is.

The date’s not working out? Your dining companions are serious bores? Not to worry. When you walk in to the restaurant, someone hands you an iPad on which to choose your wine from the scrupulously curated list. (All wines are available in five sizes, from a three-ounce taste up to the entire bottle.) Each selection on the iPad comes with a note about the producer. Think of the potential for losing yourself.

lunch: Mon.–Fri. 11:30 AM–3 PM
dinner: Mon.–Sat. 5 PM–10 PM
limited menu: Mon.–Fri. 3 PM–5 PM

$9 (pesce crudo) to $14 (flatiron steak)