Sometimes what you really want is the straightforward food the staff gets before the meal service. Husband-and-wife owners Rick Hackett and Meredith Melville (a veteran duo formerly of Enrico’s, Chez Panisse, and Bay Wolf) picked up on that idea and turned every dish into that simple one you really want, treating the guests not so much as staff as family. Their concept is Pan-American cuisine that’s a blend of European and Central and South American shared plates such as soul-satisfying braised lamb with pasilla peppers, or scallops seared “a la plancha” with a subtle curry sauce. One thing to be sure of—whether it’s huevos rancheros at brunch, pork arepas midday, or a Yucatán seafood stew at night, the kitchen doesn’t hold back on the spice; you’ll be putting a dent in the cocktail list. The large room is industrial chic but still intimate, and the outdoor patio gives unobstructed views of the boats in the marina and the San Francisco skyline. With an expertly mixed cocktail in hand and a view of the sun setting over the Western Hemisphere, it’s great to be part of this family.

Dungeness crab deviled eggs with chipotle aioli
Fried shishito peppers
Yucatán seafood stew
Chocolate croissant bread pudding
view full menu here

In warm weather, which is pretty much always in Oakland, nab a seat on the patio for alfresco dining (tricked out with heaters should the fog roll in). Top Chef fans might prefer to watch the action from a ringside seat at the ceviche bar.

The historic 1926 space, anchored by cloth-wrapped pillars and art-glass fixtures, is surprisingly warm and inviting considering it was originally used as an icehouse.

lunch: Mon.–Sat. 11:30 AM–3 PM
dinner: Mon.–Thurs. 5 PM–10 PM; Fri.–Sat. 5 PM–11 PM; Sun. 5 PM–9:30 PM
brunch: Sun. 11 AM–3 PM
happy hour: Mon.–Fri. 3 PM–6 PM

$12 (shrimp and polenta) to $29 (grass-fed rib eye)