Is it a pop-up? A wine bar? A casual restaurant? A wine-blending atelier? We don’t know and we don’t care. Dcantr may be short on vowels, but the experience is long on style. A restored carriage house by day, at night the loftlike space transforms into an intimate, candlelit bistro with wooden benches and an open kitchen. On the menu are rustic American entrées from the wood-fired oven of its big sister, the Michelin-starred Saison, next door. Sharable nibbles include a silken chicken liver mousseline with seasonal fruit smears and toast points, sea urchin toast with smoked seaweed butter, and Marin Gem oysters deftly offset by a citrus-seaweed mignonette. In addition to a short, French-heavy wine list of food-friendly favorites, Dcantr servers will blend-to-order Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir at your table to match your meal. End on a sweet note with a Meyer lemon pie studded with banana and topped with milk meringue.

Marin Gem oysters with citrus seaweed mignonette
Chicken-liver mousseline with orange marmalade and toast
Braised Petaluma chicken leg with podi spices
Meyer lemon pie, banana and milk meringue

Smaller groups will find the downstairs two- and four-tops closest to the open kitchen best for taking in the culinary action, while larger groups will have more room on the balcony.

Dcantr’s sibling, Saison, started as a one-night-a-week pop-up restaurant just over a year ago in the spot’s shared building. Today Saison operates five nights a week, owns its own lease on the space and was awarded its first Michelin star last October. We’ll see if being a quick study runs in the family.

Tues.–Sat. 6 PM–10 PM

$12 (chicken-liver mousseline) to $16 (Petaluma chicken leg)