The only thing New Yorkers love more than a tough exterior is a surprise interior that opens up into a glamorous multilevel space under a glass roof—NoHo chic. Five Points, named after the slum where NYC’s famine-era Irish once raised hell, has both in spades. Located on stage-set-authentic Great Jones Street, an Old New York byway of the sort that’s increasingly hard to find amid the new development, the restaurant’s exterior offers a slice of tattered downtown, circa 1885. But inside, it’s a different story. A softer story, where cords of wood and stacks of rustic breads suggest a warm prosperity, and a 24-foot split log converted to a zen-like fountain conveys a sense of victory over hardship. Service is no-nonsense, a reminder that this is no chipper chain that’s gutted another downtown prewar. Though crowd-pleasers like buttermilk fried chicken and cheddar and bacon-topped burgers have been added to the menu, Marc Meyer’s hand-wrought Med-American is still a good bet: Semolina macaroni with wood-oven roasted Sun Gold tomatoes; a butter lettuce salad with pungent lemon anchovy dressing; and Vermont lamb chops with sweet polenta balance sugar and bitter, and give diners a chance to feel home not-too-sweet home, just like a member of the Five Points gang might have.

Wood-oven pizzas
Fried razor clams, green chile aioli
Butter lettuce salad, Pecorino, lemon anchovy dressing
Vermont lamb chops, sweet corn polenta, escarole
House-made semolina macaroni, roasted tomatoes
view full menu here

The outdoor patio is a great spot in nice weather, which seems to still be in the offing this fall, but the four-top adjacent to the log fountain is a good score at any time.

The restaurant is down the street from where the notorious Five Points Gang once had its headquarters, at the New Brighton Athletic Club. Today, the boys might have to settle for space in the fancy new 13-story hotel at 25 Great Jones. But they could always pop over for a bite at Five Points—management willing.

lunch: Mon.–Fri. 12 noon–5 PM
dinner: Mon.–Sat. 5:30 PM–11 PM
brunch: Sun. 11 AM–3 PM

$14 (tomato pizza) to $26 (Vermont lamb chops)