Ciudad

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Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger had already staked a claim downtown before the rush to get a mod Latin restaurant on every corner hit the area. Like good pioneers, they snagged a prime location, in the courtyard of Union Bank Plaza, with an outdoor patio and skyscraper views. The menu here hops around Latin America, from Mexico and Peru down to Argentina, and even crosses the Atlantic to Spain. These “Too Hot Tamales” (so dubbed by the Food Network) have done it again with a jumping place whose décor and food are big, bold, and as festive as Cinco de Mayo. If Detective Sergeant Joe Friday were still around, you would hear him say, “This is the ciudad—Los Angeles, California—and this is how we eat today.”

menu musts

Peruvian ceviche (mahimahi and avocado)
Argentine empanadas with wild mushrooms and chipotle sauce
Ono poblano tiradito (seared poblano, avocado, chile sauce)
Niman Ranch pork carnitas, white-cheddar corn grits and kale
Barcelona chocolate cake

sweet seats

Go for the four-top in the corner of the cavernous dining room. The L-shaped bar is more casual and closer to the alcohol and televised sports.

chew on this

Weekdays are a bargain with a $10 Quick Lunch served in the bar. Stay long enough and you can fill up on tacos ($3) and half-price house drinks ($4.50) during happy hour (4 PM–7 PM).

hours

lunch: Mon.–Fri. 11:30 AM–3 PM
dinner: Mon.–Tues. 5 PM–9 PM; Wed.–Thurs. 5 PM–10 PM; Fri.–Sat. 5 PM–11 PM
Sundays (tapas only) 5 PM–9 PM

price range for dinner entrées

$24 (artichoke and samfaina vegetable fideo pasta) to $34 (Argentine gaucho steak)