BBE Editor's Pick
Good Girl Dinette
110 N. Ave. 56, Los Angeles (Highland Park)
Casual-modern Vietnamese is the mode on the Eastside, but the dishes at this Highland Park storefront diner sparkle with a little more originality, an extra dash of spicy flair—and that makes all the difference. Chef-owner Diep Tran grew up working in her aunt and uncle’s restaurant, Pho 79, one of the first Vietnamese places in Southern California. At Good Girl she takes comfort food beyond steaming bowls of pho (although she serves that, too) with a wild assortment of deftly spiced curries, chicken pot pies, and fries sprinkled with fresh jalapeño. The beef stew, fragrant with cinnamon and coriander, is remarkable for being hale-and-hearty but far more nuanced than the standard fill-me-up fare. The word “dinette,” too, might be a bit misleading, for the meat is locally sourced, some from Niman Ranch, some from a sustainable chicken producer whom Tran came across at the Hollywood Farmers Market, and all vegetables are local. Not only that, but a stark hipster setup is in full effect here, with enough halogen track lighting and retro furnishing on the poured-concrete floor to rival anything west of the 405. It’s a loud, happening neighborhood hole-in-the-wall that works just as well for bohemian date nights as it does for family outings (kids like to play drums with the electric-orange chopsticks). True to its name, Good Girl doesn’t serve alcohol, but you might prefer the house soda made with farmers market fruits anyway.
menu musts
Curry pot pies (vegetable or chicken)
Curry rice (chicken or vegetable)
Beef stew
Spicy fries
view full menu here
sweet seats
The one-room space is pretty straightforward, but benches lining two walls offer the most comfortable places to park.
chew on this
What’s in a name? According to Tran, a self-proclaimed feminist, Good Girl struck her as “kind of old-fashioned, playful, irreverent and funny.” We think so, too, and like it a lot better than Acme Diner.
hours
lunch: Fri. 11 AM–3 PM (new as of December)
dinner: Tues.–Thurs. 5:30 PM–9:30 PM; Fri. 5:30 PM–10 PM;
Sat. 12 noon–10 PM; Sun. 12 noon–9 PM
closed Monday
price range for menu items*
$8 (grandpa’s porridge) to $10 (seared beef rice noodle salad)
*cash only
110 N. Ave. 56 (between Marmion Way and N. Figueroa St.), Los Angeles, CA 90042; 323-257-8980
www.goodgirlfoods.com
$