There are no trains anywhere in sight. No station, either. What is evident at this small, well-lit bistro are the flights to Italy made by the no-nonsense duo who once worked together at Café de la Gare: Maryann Terillo (formerly of Jarnac) and Elisa Sarno (formerly of Babbo). They acknowledge farm-to-table food with a thank-you on the menu to the local growers they regularly source from, but the emphasis here is on cooking craft, not feeding NYC’s farm-obsessed dining culture. The restaurant’s dishes, by turns French and Italian, are flavor-forward and full of surprises, but a grilled pork chop, smothered with succotash and served atop mashed potatoes, is seared in maple syrup, giving it an autumnal American breakfast quality that’s sweet, smoky and savory. Pan-roasted Barcat oysters are drowned in a rich fennel and cream sauce, which crunchy toasted baguette slices make easy work of. Zucchini flowers are perfectly fried and stuffed with ricotta and a summery pesto, while a stack of cold zucchini slices the size of poker chips absorb any traces of greasiness. Diners longing for a warm West Villlage bistro experience that transports them to the Mediterranean should climb aboard.

Pan-roasted Barcat oysters with fennel and cream
Chilled roasted tomato soup with fresh ricotta and mint
Grilled pork chop, succotash, mashed potatoes
Veal tenderloin with tuna sauce, served cold
Bread-and-butter pudding with crème anglaise
 view full menu here

The five tables in the garden offer a quiet respite from the bright and busy dining room. No reservations are taken for garden seating, but as long as the weather’s nice, it’s fair game for parties of four or fewer.

The wine list is priced to move (with many good bottles under $40) and heavily emphasizes biodynamic and sustainable wines from California, Italy and France, including a selection by women vintners.

lunch: Tues.–Fri. 11:30 AM–3 PM
dinner: Tues.–Sat. 5:30 PM–11 PM; Sun. 5:30 PM–10 PM
brunch: Sat.–Sun. 11 AM–3 PM

$22 (Meyer lemon pasta) to $28 (steak frites)