Let’s face it: Sometimes the trappings of high-end dining—the ornate surroundings, unctuous servers and outrageous price tags—can sour the experience. Not so at Petrossian in West Hollywood. This offshoot of the renowned caviar empire, founded in Paris in the 1920s by two Armenian brothers, Melkoum and Mouchegh Petrossian, offers luxe standards like foie gras and black truffles, but the setting is bright and airy, with an easy elegance that never feels over-the-top. Of course, the caviar is first-rate, but there are other treasures on the menu, like the jewel-toned borscht. It’s served cool, and its flavor is both earthy and slightly acidic, a perfect foil for a deluxe version of macaroni and cheese studded with truffles, bacon and Parmesan. And if you feel like splurging on a tin of Royal Ossetra, well, go for it.

Foie gras salad
Cold borscht
Caviar pizza
Black truffle mac and cheese
Pistachio crème brûlée

If it’s a warm day, order up a Bellini and grab one of the tables outside. People-watching on this tony stretch of North Robertson is as good as it gets.

If you’re looking for the ultimate Sunday brunch to celebrate a big birthday, a big anniversary or perhaps an even bigger divorce, this is the place. The Caviar Brunch prix fixe meal ($69) includes champagne, two courses of caviar and dessert. (10 AM–4 PM)