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BBE Editor's Pick

Betelnut

2030 Union St., San Francisco (Cow Hollow)   map

Betelnut

Sara Kraus Photography

It’s a secret menu—a celebration of offal—designed by Betelnut exclusively for BlackboardEats, with dishes rarely found in restaurants, even in Malaysia. (A special curry, in fact, is rarely served outside Malaysian homes.) And it’s quite a feast, starting with highly addictive salt-and-pepper veal sweetbreads—tender and not gamey, with a bright zing of fresh ginger, garlic and Szechuan peppercorn topped with scallions, five spice and salt. Crispy chicken livers come with black-pepper sauce and roasted onions, for a crunchy-creamy taste that makes it the perfect bar snack. The most refined dish is the Northern Malaysian and Thai influenced cured lamb tongue served cold with juicy lime, galangal and crispy taro strips. The pièce de résistance, though, may be the Nonya-style whole fish head tamarind curry, traditionally served at celebrations like birthdays or anniversaries. Dig into luscious morsels of fish—from the cheek and collar—in a rich sauce of coconut milk, tamarind and shrimp paste that’s chunky with vegetables. Try as many or as few dishes as you like from the secret menu, rounding them out with Asian classics from the regular menu, like Cecilia’s minced chicken in lettuce cups, oven-smoked sea bass, and Szechuan green beans—all served family style. Take a walk on the culinary wild side, where you’d least expect it, on Union Street.

menu musts

Crispy chicken liver, black pepper sauce, $9.88
Cured lamb tongue, galangal, lime, crispy taro, $11.88
Salt-and-pepper veal sweetbread, $12.88
Fish head tamarind curry, $15.88
view full menu here

sweet seats

The 1920s Shanghai speakeasy vibe at Betelnut is decidedly romantic. In the front of the restaurant facing the street is the lively bar; a row of swaying bamboo fans and red paper lanterns lend an air of subtropical elegance. In the back you'll find larger tables, and while the ambiance is fine, it’s the open kitchen and food that steal the show.

chew on this

Chef Alex Ong grew up in Malaysia and learned to cook there. His dishes reflect not just the Chinese, Thai and Indian influences commonly found in his motherland, but also his classical French training, along with Burmese, Japanese and Vietnamese traditions as well. He travels to Asia frequently for inspiration and to learn new cooking techniques and rekindle his love for classical Asian cooking.

hours

lunch: Sun.–Sat. 11:30 AM–4:30 PM

dinner: Sun.–Thurs. 4 PM–11 PM, Fri.–Sat. 4 PM–12 midnight

price range

$9.75 (happy buddha dumplings) to $21.88 (beggar’s chicken)

2030 Union St. (between Webster St. and Buchanan St.), San Francisco, CA 94123; 415-929-8855   map   www.betelnutrestaurant.com $$


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