Jason Denton is inextricably linked to panini, which he popularized at buzzy boîtes ’ino, corsino, and ’inoteca. But for his first Brooklyn beachhead—close to Williamsburg’s Bedford L stop—the pressed sandwich has relented to a tight menu of shareable, Greenmarket-influenced nibbles paired with plenty of wine and potent cocktails to boot. Design-wise, the split-level restaurant follows the neighborhood’s polished-industrial aesthetic: slick concrete floors, exposed piping, brick walls, and wooden banquettes with block tables. Instead of being cooler-than-thou, the mood is warm and inviting, with baby-cradling families and canoodling couples snacking on Corsino vet Shaunna Sargent’s grilled bruschetta topped with house-made ricotta. Salads of thin-sliced sunchokes, and pears or roasted acorn squash with mascarpone, will content vegetarians, while carnivores can gnaw on spaghetti freighted with brisket-and–pork belly meatballs, or clams with house-hewn sausage. More substantial is the “whole animal” menu: Various fish and heritage-breed pigs, lambs, and game birds are heaped alongside a trio of sides, including fried potatoes and roasted carrots with crème fraîche. And as for the famous Denton panini, it still might be the greatest thing since sliced bread.

Market toast with house-made ricotta and honey
Spaghetti with brisket-and–pork belly meatballs
“Whole animal” entrée (with both “feet and fin”; changes nightly)
Roasted acorn squash with mascarpone
view full menu here

If you prefer to watch Williamsburg walk past, select a seat on the ground floor that’s fronted by floor-to-ceiling windows. If not wanting to feel like a fish in an aquarium, nab an upstairs perch—perhaps the communal table, if you have a big party—or a seat at the bar, where you can ogle the towering wall of spirits and wine.

From 5 PM to 7 PM nightly, and 3 PM to 7 PM on weekends, Betto runs one of Williamsburg’s finest happy hours (not available with BBE deal). Snacks such as pickled vegetables and flatbreads are gratis, while market toasts—well, bruschetta—are discounted to a dollar. Sweetening the deal, six-ounce pours of Brooklyn Brewery beers run $1, glasses of wine cost $5, and select cocktails are scaled back to $9.

Mon.–Wed. 5 PM–12 midnight; Thurs.–Fri. 5 PM–1 AM;
Sat. 10 AM–1 AM; Sun. 10 AM–12 midnight

$5 (shareable plates) to $38 (“whole animal” entrées)