You might mistake the entrance to Dovetail for the door to some fortunate Upper West Sider’s home, the kind you pause before entering and think, “Hope I brought the right wine.” You’ll relax once inside, though. The deep dining room is remarkably cozy for all its restrained simplicity: clusters of bare tables in a long gallery faced with polished wood and brick give way to an ecru-colored padded wall at the rear that muffles the steady burble of conversation just enough. Chef John Fraser and pastry chef Vera Tong—both formerly of Compass, seven blocks south—provide plenty of quiet surprises: grilled asparagus brightened with lavender and lemony sorrel; a dense rectangle of beef cheek lasagna paired with tender roasted sirloin; and for dessert, a single scoop of condensed-milk ice cream. It’s refined comfort food stripped of clichés, in a setting that feels like a dinner party where everything’s going very, very right.

Veal ravioli with asparagus, Tokyo turnips and spinach
Halibut confit with broccoli, chanterelles and mint
Colorado lamb loin with eggplant, zucchini and olives
Roasted sirloin with beef cheek lasagna
Brioche bread pudding with bananas and bacon brittle
*menu changes seasonally view full menu here

For an intimate meal, go for one of the tables along the cushiony banquette in the rear of the dining room or take a seat in the candlelit bar.

The architect Richard Bloch designed the inviting, clean-lined Dovetail space. (Other Bloch-designed New York restaurants are Masa, Le Bernardin and 15 East.) In fall 2009, when Fraser (who cooked at the French Laundry and at the legendary Taillevent in Paris) expanded into the space next door, he added 20 seats to the dining room and a new bar with its own menu, and increased the number of bottles on the wine list by 500.

lunch: Fri. 12 noon–2:30 PM
dinner: Mon. 5:30 PM–10 PM; Tues.–Sat. 5:30 PM–11 PM;
Sun. 5:30 PM–10 PM
brunch: Sat.–Sun. 11:30 AM–2:30 PM

$26 (striped bass) to $38 (sirloin and lasagna)
$42 three-course prix fixe supper on Sunday