To describe chef and cookbook author Waldy Malouf’s trilevel restaurant as old-fashioned is to give it high praise—if “old-fashioned” still stands for a coat check and white-linen tablecloths, an impeccably professional yet friendly waitstaff, a noise level so low it invites intimate conversation, and a no-apologies emphasis on hearty entrées like perfectly grilled lamb chops, filet mignon, and spit-roasted suckling pig. Malouf installed both a wood-fired oven and a rotisserie in the restaurant, and most offerings—shrimp, pizza, and artichokes—get the open-flame treatment. There are even wood-roasted strawberries, although Beacon’s signature desserts are his sumptuous chocolate chip and bourbon pecan soufflés (leave your diet at home). While the Beacon’s clientele leans toward the suit-and-tie crowd, the restaurant is anything but stuffy, and you’ll be warmly welcomed even if you show up in jeans and a T-shirt.

Wood-roasted oysters
Arugula and warm potato salad
Wood-grilled lamb
Spit-roasted ten-herb chicken, panzanella salad
Wood-roasted rainbow trout view full menu here

All three dining levels have their advocates, but the corner two-seater banquette on the main floor might be the best seat in the house. If you’re popping in solo for lunch, consider the lower level burger bar, with a view into the kitchen and wood oven.

Chef Waldy Malouf is cofounder and director of the Windows of Hope Family Relief Fund, which raises money for families of food service workers killed in the 9/11 attacks.

lunch: Mon.–Fri. 11:45 AM–2:30 PM
dinner: Mon.–Thurs. 5 PM–10 PM;
Fri.–Sat. 5 PM–11 PM; Sun. 5 PM–9 PM;
brunch: Sun. 10:30 AM–2:30 PM

$18 (angel hair pasta with bacon) to $34 (New York sirloin)