What started as a stand at Williamsburg’s weekend-only Artists & Fleas market has migrated across the East River to the growing Essex Street Market gastro-mecca, where Brooklyn Taco has carved out a tiny, permanent niche—emphasis on tiny. The Lilliputian stall, helmed by Brooklyn native Erica Molina and Maialino vet Jesse Kramer, is essentially an exposed kitchen with several slender wooden counters. In the morning, belly up for a cup of pour-over Blue Bottle Coffee and an empanada dulce (filled with arroz con leche) before returning at lunchtime for the duo’s rotating menu—about five to six offerings daily—of refined Mexican street eats. Warmed blue-corn tortillas serve as the offbeat base for novel tacos, such as long-braised brisket topped with fresh pineapple salsa, shards of subtly smoky chipotle chicken, and the Guaco: chunks of creamy avocado partnered with tomatoes, sweet corn, cotija cheese and luscious crema. The tamales are tops, too, including the black beanwith more cotija, as well as the triple-chile’d pork. They’re great with a cold bottle of Jarritos soda or Mexican Coke. Sometimes you can’t improve upon tradition.

Chilorio brisket taco
Lightly chiptole’d chicken taco
Guaco taco
Cotija and black bean tamale
Breakfast taco (sausage, egg, and cheese); Sunday only
view full menu here

A joke, right? Unless you feel like squeezing into one of the two bars, outfitted with a trio of snug seats, you’re likely getting your feast to go.

If you’re unable to make it down to the Essex Street Market, don’t fret: The BTC team will happily craft tortas and tacos for your next shindig.

Tue.–Sat. 8 AM–7 PM; Sun. 10 AM–6 PM
*last call, 15 minutes before closing; hot food ready by 11 AM

$3.50 (chicken taco) to $4.25 (tamales)
*more than $4.25 for some specialty tacos