BBE Editor's Pick

Browntrout

4111 N. Lincoln Ave., Chicago (North Center)

Jennifer Olvera

By Jennifer Olvera

Sean Sanders’ sustainable New American checks pretension at the door with simple, punchy small and large plates, drawing from a secret rooftop garden that brings local about as close as it gets. For BBE members, that translates into a seasonal prix fixe menu, with the kind of food that draws couples and families alike to this North Center storefront on a quiet stretch of Lincoln Avenue. Look for such menu standouts as pleasantly chewy wheat berry and corn risotto with hunks of lardons and pickled garlic scapes; and smoky Canadian walleye on top of sweet fennel-apple puree, wild mushrooms, and corn, with apple-fennel slaw. The casual, come-however setting exudes neighborhood charm with wood seating at bare wood tables and a warm glow from fern-embossed pendant lighting. Browntrout is worth the trip, local or not.

BBE prix fixe menu

(seasonal menu subject to change; vegetarian options available)

first course
Shaved musque de Provence, fennel, Parmesan, arugula, Banyuls, pickled cranberry

second course
Whitefish brandade, fennel pollen, roasted garlic, grilled rosemary flatbread

third course
Wheat berry and corn risotto, lardons, Parmesan, pickled garlic scapes

fourth course
Canadian walleye, fennel-apple puree and slaw, wild mushrooms, smoked corn, fennel flower
or
Crispy Gunthrop duck breast, sunchoke-potato puree, crispy cardoon, roasted radish, aronia jam
or
Parisienne gnocchi and squash lasagna, ricotta, pecans, fennel, cauliflower, brown butter, juniper, sage

fifth course
Butterscotch crème brulée, pumpkin oatmeal pecan cookies

menu musts

Wheatberry and corn risotto
Canadian walleye
Butterscotch crème brûlée topped with Pig’s Nose blended scotch view full menu here

sweet seats

A long, central communal table runs the length of the dining room, while tucked away seats up front allow views of passersby on
Lincoln Avenue.

chew on this

Sanders’ small rooftop garden—though not open to the public—grows all manner of herbs, peppers, and tomatoes when weather allows. That’s supplemented by atypical eats from local farms, such as these recent gems: so-juicy-they-pop cherry tomatoes, revived from Darwin-era Galapagos seeds.

hours

dinner: Sun., Wed.–Thu. 5 PM–10 PM; Fri.–Sat. 5 PM–11 PM
brunch: Sun. 11 AM–3 PM
closed Monday and Tuesday

price range

$15 (Q7 Ranch bacon burger) to $25 (Gunthorp pork porterhouse)

4111 N. Lincoln Ave. (between W. Belle Plaine Ave. and W. Warner Ave.), Chicago, IL 60618; 773-472-4111 www.browntroutchicago.com $$$