The blogosphere was all abuzz when this upscale pizza shop opened late last year. What is Roman-style pizza? Are the dishes really underseasoned (or do some online reviewers just lack decent palates)? And does the neighborhood need more ’za, anyway? Owner Andrea Dal Monte, a former manager and sommelier of Del Posto, hails from Rome and owns the Michelin-starred Acquolina in that city. His menu does not pander to unseasoned American tastes. And recent visits prove that this is no ordinary slice joint. Yes, there’s less cheese on the thin, rectangular pies than some folks might like. Frankly, that’s a good thing. The pies—and several tasty variations on gnocchi—spotlight specialty ingredients like imported mozzarella, local basil, and San Marzano tomatoes (the mushrooms are darn good, too). Appetizers are too big not to share: Mounds of fresh produce fill salad plates just as a mound of creamy chicken liver pâté adorns the slightly charred and wonderfully crunchy bruschetta. This is a casual osteria, chic with banquettes and simple two-tops. But there’s no denying the pride in product. On the way out, owner Andrea made us promise we wouldn’t reheat the leftovers in a microwave. When this close to Rome, we always do as the Romans do.

Focaccia, Roman artichoke and salame
Pappa al pomodoro (traditional tomato bread soup)
Rigatoni alla carbonara
Pollo coi pepperoni (chicken with peppers, olives, tomato sauce, arugula salad)

Glass of Trebbiano Talamonti

As you enter, the right-hand side of the restaurant offers cozy two-person bistro tables; the left side has a long banquette for larger parties.

The wine list makes it easy to browse; all bottles cost one of four reasonable prices—$29, $36, $45 and $68.

Tues.–Sat. 11 AM–11 PM; Sun. 11 AM–10 PM

$10.50 (“everyday” pizza) to $23 (white truffle, mozzarella and prosciutto pizza); $29 (three-course Roman dinner)