The French do everything with style and that includes the things that happen before the sun goes down, namely brunch and lunch. Michelin-recommended Chez Papa Resto delivers an updated bistro experience anytime of day. The high ceilings and massive windows convey a sense of old-world grandeur, while the dark walls, plush upholstery and proximity to Union Square make it a good spot for a business lunch, a leisurely shopping break or dinner. Bright citrus flavors bounce off earthy beets and peppery arugula in a fresh, colorful salad that bursts off the plate like a Kandinsky painting. The Niçoise salad boasts a sizable slab of seared albacore tuna, complemented with exquisite soft-boiled quail eggs, pearls of potato, and confit tomatoes. In a take on frisée aux lardons, a soft egg (from a chicken this time) and soft braised pork belly provide mellow contrast to the bitter tang of frisée. Be sure to order an extra side of frites for the table, and if you choose to split a carafe of wine at lunch, well, we won’t tell the boss.

Snake River Kobe beef tartare
Grilled albacore Niçoise with soft quail egg
Grilled aged sirloin burger
Chez Papa pommes frites
view full menu here

Weather permitting, definitely nab a table outside on Mint Plaza. The mottled pavement and looming neoclassical façade of the Old Mint have the feel of a charming hidden rue right in the middle of San Francisco’s bustling downtown.

The amazing texture of the eggs with the pork belly at Chez Papa Resto is achieved with the sous-vide technique, in which food is encased in a vacuum-sealed bag and then cooked at a low temperature in water for an extended period of time. The eggs reach the desired temperature gently, causing them to set without hardening, yielding a custardy yolk and soft white. Sous-vide dates to 1799, but gained mainstream popularity only in recent years when it was championed by “molecular gastronomy” chefs.

lunch: Mon.¬–Fri. 11:30 AM–2:30 PM; Sat. 11:30 AM–3 PM
dinner: Mon.–Thurs. 5:30 PM–10 PM; Fri.–Sat. 5:30 PM–11 PM
closed Sunday

$14 (Carlsbad mussels) to $22 (grilled New York steak); $23 (two-course business lunch prix fixe)