BBE Editor's Pick
Da Flora
701 Columbus Avenue, San Francisco (North Beach)
Amy Sherman
Da Flora is like a cross between a Venetian palazzo and a B&B dining room. It’s comfortable, warm and casual yet romantic, with rich red walls, heavy curtains, marble tiled floors and mismatched vintage silverware. As improbable as it sounds, chef Jen McMahon actually improves upon Italian food adding Hungarian touches at the direction of owner and host Flora Gaspar, a culinary historian who is writing a book on the cuisine of her Hungarian forbearers. The signature dish, sweet potato gnocchi in a sherry cream and bacon sauce is something that customers love, as is the creamy baccala mantecato or salt cod whipped into a frenzy and served on crostini. Flora is particularly proud of her paprika which she imports herself, it’s the centerpiece of the entree on the BBE prix fixe menu, Paprikas Csirke, chicken thighs simmered in a sweet Hungarian paprika and red peppers until they surrender into delicate shreds. It's served with a sweet fresh corn and polenta budino along with a glass of refreshing Hungarian Blue Frankish white wine Szoke Matyas & Zoltran Kiraly Leanyka, that brings out the sweetness and bright notes of the peppers. You'll end up as stuffed as the crepes, Gundel Palacsinta with walnuts, chocolate, tangy Amarena cherries and a dollop of cream, also included on the prix fixe menu. If you want to be treated like family at this wonderfully quirky restaurant, here are some tips: Always make a reservation, pay cash (if possible), and put your cell phone away.
BBE prix fixe dinner menu
Paprikas Csirke (boneless chicken thighs simmered in a sweet Hungarian paprika sauce with red peppers, creme fraiche and a sweet corn and polenta budino)
Gundel Palacsinta (crepes stuffed with ground walnuts and topped with warm dark chocolate ganache, Amarena cherries and a dollop of whipped cream)
A glass of white Hungarian Blue Frankish wine (Szoke Matyas & Zoltran Kiraly Leanyka 2007)
Gundel Palacsinta (crepes stuffed with ground walnuts and topped with warm dark chocolate ganache, Amarena cherries and a dollop of whipped cream)
A glass of white Hungarian Blue Frankish wine (Szoke Matyas & Zoltran Kiraly Leanyka 2007)
menu musts
Sweet potato gnocchi in a sherry cream and bacon sauce
Baccala mantecato or salt cod crostini
Duck Livers ala Venezia
Baccala mantecato or salt cod crostini
Duck Livers ala Venezia
sweet seats
For date nights, the best seats in the house are at the tables for two near the window with a view of the calmer end of Columbus, though larger parties can also be accommodated and will enjoy looking at the antiques, wine collection and bric-a-brac.
chew on this
Chef and owner Flora Gaspar is not only of Hungarian descent, but has been traveling to and researching the cuisine of Hungary for years. The sweet Hungarian paprika she imports is from Kalocsa, from a single-family estate and will soon be available for sale at the restaurant.
hours
Tues.–Sat. 6 PM–9:30 PM
price range
$21 (orecchiette with broccoli rabe) $24 (pork tenderloin)
