Native Sicilian Celestino Drago opened his eponymous Santa Monica ristorante 10 years ago and proceeded to build a citywide empire, but none of his previous efforts can match the splendor of Drago Centro, which rests between two downtown business towers. Chef de cuisine Ian Gresik deftly delivers modern riffs on time-tested Italian dishes. On my visit, a salad of farro cleverly complemented a tightly packed rectangle of this nutty Italian grain with crispy fried chickpeas, shaved vegetables, a crispy pancetta tuile, and decorative dots of basil oil. Pappardelle al fagiano came with sheets of al dente pasta slicked with jus from tender chunks of roasted pheasant and spongy morel mushrooms. A comforting main, osso buco di vitello, starred tender chunks of glazed veal and rich pan juices coating more grains of farro. While the menu changes seasonally—or even on the whim of the chef— every dish here, like the stunning architecture itself, gets an A plus.

Insalata di farro
Pappardelle al fagiano
Ossobuco di vitello
Bone-in rib eye for two with smoked hollandaise
*menu changes seasonally
view full menu here

Table 63 is the four-top in the northeast corner favored by execs and various celebs like to sit. Table 80 is a four-top near the window with views of downtown skyscrapers. Table 10 is Drago Centro’s only round booth, which is well suited for couples.

Sommelier Michael Shearin developed a regional Italian wine list and also spearheads a seasonal cocktail program. Soothing Sedation—organic gin, Benedectine, and housemade blackberry jam—is guaranteed to calm you down.

lunch: Mon.–Fri. 11:30 AM–2:30 PM
dinner: Mon.–Fri. 5 PM - 10 PM; Sat. 5 PM–10 PM;
Sun. 5 PM–9 PM

$27 (tuna) to $85 (bone-in rib eye for two)