There’s nothing like Michelin to make everyone stand up (on the L train, in this case) and take notice. When Dressler garnered its star back in 2008 (and every year since), Manhattanites began heading out to Williamsburg in droves to a moody café with lavish chandeliers of filigree ironwork made by craftspeople from the borough (Brooklyn, that is). What they found was what you’ll still find today, a restaurant that spreads an American eagle eye over the classic bistro kitchen. Oysters, and house-smoked Scottish salmon with a potato galette, are starters to remember. Hudson Valley chicken, a staple of the seasonal menu, gets dressed up with escarole, a dumpling, baby artichokes, and a little pancetta for good measure; heritage pork loin benefits from apple-fennel puree and spaetzle. Williamsburg is now a dining destination, but it all got going here and shows no signs of slowing down.

Oysters
Scottish salmon
Hudson Valley chicken
Heritage pork loin
Oxtail ragout
view full menu here

Those three leather booths in the back room are a good get, with nice views of all the chandeliers running back into the restaurant.

Martin Dressler is the main character in Steven Millhauser’s 1996 Pulitzer-winning novel of the same name, about a New Yorker of humble origins who pursues the American Dream in the early part of the last century—and wins, in his own way.

dinner: Mon–Thu 6 PM–11 PM; Fri 6 PM–12 midnight;
Sat 5:30 PM–12 midnight; Sun 5:30 PM–10:30 PM
brunch: Sun 11 AM–3:30 PM
midday menu: Sun 3:30 PM–5:30 PM

$26 (Hudson Valley chicken) to $35 (hanger steak and veal cheek)