Like the distinguished types who run our great museums, Roberto Santibañez has always been a good curator who cares deeply about his collection—not Goya prints or Ming vases in this case but classic Mexican food. He once displayed his treasures at Rosa Mexicano. Currently he is running the show at his own restaurant in Park Slope, and there’s something exciting about knowing he’s in the kitchen now. The guacamole, in a sacramental three-leg molcajete, is sprinkled with queso fresco, a touch you knew he signed off on himself. Mole negro Oaxaqueño coats the chicken enchiladas like a thick, black oil. Santibañez was always the quintessential “nice guy,” who once took time out from a conference break to explain to me in great detail the history of the Haas avocado. That attitude seeps into the fiber of Fonda, so hopping on an ice-cold weekday night you’d be forgiven for expecting perfunctory service. Not here. The hostess cares deeply about where you want to sit and will return to the bar to point out options that might be coming available. The bartender transfers your margaritas to the table before you realize it. A server stays to discuss the menu, a kind tutor who wants to make sure you appreciate each work of art before committing to it.

Guacamole (for two)
Enchiladas de mole negro Oaxaqueño
Pescado al guajillo (catch of the day over guajillo-fruit sauce)
Pork adobo in ancho chile sauce
view full menu here

The few tables along the window are good, as is the table for two against the back wall under the chandelier.

Born in Mexico and trained at Cordon Bleu in Paris, Santibañez moved to New York in 2002 to become culinary director of Rosa Mexicano and is the author of a new book, Truly Mexican.

dinner: Tue–Thu 5 PM–10:30 PM; Fri–Sat 5 PM–11:30 PM;
Sun 5 PM–10 PM
brunch: Sat–Sun 11 AM–4 PM

$14 (Fonda burger) to $21 (costilla de borrego)