The last flavors you’d expect to find along the famous stretch of Indian restaurants on East 6th Street known as Curry Row are Japanese pickled plum and shiso leaf. But then, Chiyono, the homey little hole-in-the-wall staffed by young Japanese artists, is a welcome surprise in many ways. No sushi or ramen here. Instead, sit down at the communal table that dominates the narrow room, order some beer or unfiltered, smoky-colored sake, and dig into the kind of real home cooking you’d find, if not in your Japanese mom’s kitchen these days (she’s got a full-time job, it’s instant ramen for the kids), then definitely in one of those reliable neighborhood joints that are everywhere in Japan. Dark-wood ceiling beams and mellow lighting add to the warmth, as does the white-aproned chef and owner, Chiyono Murano (a printmaker herself), who darts frequently out of the kitchen to chat with the homesick Japanese expats who make up half the clientele. The food is good, prices are low enough and the waitstaff and atmosphere are so welcoming, you’ll want to call this place home, too, no matter where you’re from.

Pirikara-konnyaku (yam with hot soy sauce)
Pork gyoza (pork, garlic chives, cabbage)
Chicken cream croquette (deep-fried potato stuffed with chicken)
Kaki-age soba (cold buckwheat noodles with vegetable tempura)
Saba-shioyaki (grilled mackerel)

If you’re not feeling sociable, there’s a table for two and a four-seater by the front window and another two-seater in the back. But the communal table is lots of fun.

Murano originally came to New York to study art. Her prints, as well as works by some of the restaurant’s servers, hang on the wall and are for sale.

Tues.–Sat. 6 PM–11:30 PM (last order 10:30 PM)
Sun. 5 PM–11 PM (last order 10 PM)
closed Monday

$15 (vegetarian plate) to $30 (chef’s special course)