BBE Editor's Pick

Canelé

3219 Glendale Blvd., Los Angeles (Atwater Village)

Despite its name, which refers to a custardy French pastry, Canelé's sweet spot is savory farmers' market-influenced dishes. Belly up to the bar to watch the show in the open kitchen -- but if you're looking for high drama, better head to José André's Bazaar; these cooks are as mellow as the freelance artist sitting beside you. Chef Corina Weibel may hail from Campanile and Lucques, but with its chalkboard menu and bare tables, Canelé is the definitive hip yet homey neighborhood joint -- and its devoted local fans wouldn't have it any other way.

menu musts

Jamón serrano with Garrotxa cheese, baked fruit, almonds and toasts
Heirloom tomatoes with French feta, Persian cucumbers and kalamata olives
Bistro steak with sauce Bordelaise, pommes Anna and creamed spinach
Duck confit with red rice, sautéed greens, wild plum sauce and toasted almonds
Salt-roasted branzino with parsley, celery salad and Caperberries

sweet seats

Feel like making friends of the beret-adorned variety? Opt for the communal table adventure. P.S. Canelé is walk-in only, so best to call ahead, especially if you're a party of five or more.

chew on this

This one's for anyone who's ever had a hankering to drop everything and become a professional chef: Every few months, the restaurant holds a Friends Cook at Canelé event, inviting a regular customer to cook a three-course meal with the help of the kitchen staff, then offering the final creations as a prix fixe option for all diners. Interested? Talk to general manager Jane next time you go in.

hours

Dinner: Tues.-Wed. 5:30 PM-10 PM, Thurs.-Sat. 5:30 PM-10:30 PM, Sun. 5 PM-10 PM
Brunch: Sat.-Sun. 10 AM-3 PM

price range

$10 (Nonni's aglio olio pasta) to $24 (bistro steak)

3219 Glendale Blvd. (between Edenhurst and Brunswick Ave.), Los Angeles, CA 90039; 323-666-7133 www.canele-la.com