At this stage, it seems natural to miso-marinate and broil black cod until it achieves a caramelized consistency, but in the ’80s, when Nobuyuki Matsuhisa invented his signature dish, it was groundbreaking. The world-famous chef debuted his style of Japanese-Peruvian fusion in 1987 at Matsuhisa on La Cienega. His cooking can now be found at nearly 30 outlets around the world, including Nobu West Hollywood, the fashionable spot just up the street from where the party started. David Rockwell’s redesign of the former L’Orangerie space includes jaw-dropping elements like bean-shaped lanterns lined with Japanese silkworm cocoons and a woven thatch wall with red backlighting that looks like something Jackson Pollock might have painted if he were trapped inside a volcano. Signature items on the sprawling menu include buttery yellowtail sashimi dressed with dime-size slivers of jalapeño. Pastry chef Gabriele Riva makes the obligatory green tea ice cream but digs much deeper with creations like cheesecake mousse with sable breton, raspberry coulis, and sweet gorgonzola gelato.

Yellowtail sashimi with jalapeño
New-style scallop sashimi
Black cod with miso
Brick-oven yellowtail collar
Orange cremoso view full menu here

Try and snag one of the four banquette corner tables, for double the cushion and prized views of the fashionable crowd.

Born almost literally out of the ashes of Ki Oi, a restaurant Matsuhisa started in Alaska in 1977, which was destroyed in a fire, the Nobu/Matsuhisa restaurants are about as close to an empire as you can get in the dining world. In addition to the three LA-area places, there are 24 other locations around the world, from Waikiki to Cape Town, with Beijing coming this year. Did we mention the cookbooks, teas and dressings?

Sun.–Mon. 6 PM–10:15 PM; Tues.–Sat. 6 PM–11:15 PM
lounge opens one hour before main dining room each day

$15 (sushi/sashimi); $27 (kushiyaki, tobanyashi, tempura); $32 (cold dishes): $37 (hot dishes); $150 (omakase). Wagyu beef is available for $25 an ounce, with a two-ounce minimum; $40 for a six-course tapas tasting menu (bar and lounge only) that changes nightly

Dinner: Sun-Wed 6 PM-10:15 PM; Thu-Sat 6 PM-11:15 PM.
Bar Lounge: Sun-Wed 5:30 PM-10:15 PM; Thu-Sat 5:30 PM-11:15PM
Happy Hour: Mon-Sun 5:30 PM-8 PM