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Gnoccheria by Luzzo's
 
 

The chef behind Luzzo’s Neapolitan pizzas turns out gnocchi heaven

By Hannah Howard

Given the success of Luzzo’s La Pizza Napoletana on First Avenue, Ovest in Chelsea, and DaMikele in Tribeca, and we could go on—executive chef Michele Iuliano clearly could have gone on making countless fans of his Southern Italian fare happy with the Neapolitan-style pizza he’s built an empire around. And sure, maybe this exacting pizzaiolo could have even kept himself happy fine-tuning ever more exquisite tweaks to the perfect dough. But sometimes a chef has to follow a new idea—and joining forces with fiancé Anisa Moloney, Iuliano has done just that with this classic-looking spot on East Fourth Street.

While there’s an ample selection of antipasti, panini, and more on the menu, the namesake gnocchi are the clearly the star of the show here. Everything is made fresh, by hand, and the kitchen leaves no ingredient unturned in the quest for the lost dumpling. Skimping on neither quality nor quantity when it comes to their raison d'être, they use everything from ricotta to chestnut flower, mushrooms to zucchini, salmon to shrimp.

While the breadth of choices might confound the perennially indecisive, there is in fact no wrong order here. First, choose the type of dough—classic potato, spinach, beet, viola gnocchi made with purple potato (the color of a dreamy sunset, as an FYI), or even gluten-free. Next, select from more than a dozen preparations: The ragù offers a rich and meaty classic Bolognese; shrimp, artichoke, and cherry tomato blend deliciously in the carciofi; and fluffy gnocchi shine beneath a simple, fragrant sage and butter sauce in the burro and salvia.

The cozy, lovely space makes for the perfect place to linger over a glass of Prosecco. On warm days, guests can sit out on the sidewalk; inside the walls double as wine racks, home to the red-heavy, all Italian selection. A glass pre-gnocchi, accompanied by the burrata and prosciutto di Parma atop arugula, is perfetto, while eggplant parmigiana hits all the right comfort food notes. Follow these up with insalate and pillowy gnocchi, and you have the ideal summer feast.

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hours

Tue–Fri 5 PM–10:30 PM
Sat–Sun noon–10:30 PM
Closed Monday

price range

$8 (zuppa del giorno) to $15 (gnocchi)
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