Citizen
 

Santa Monica Egg Cream (Photo: Joshua Lurie)

 

Chicken schnitzel (Photo: Joshua Lurie)

Chef Seth Greenburg brings a seasonal, market-driven menu to 90210

By Joshua Lurie

The big news at Citizen, the reimagined take on Spaghettini & the Dave Koz Lounge is that the 90210 destination has recently taken a new direction, welcoming chef Seth Greenburg to deliver an ingredient focused menu with some global touches-offering a perfect balance for diners in the heart of Beverly Hills.

LA native Greenburg rose through the ranks in restaurants like LA’s late, great L’Orangerie and Chicago’s Cuisine Francais, and was previously executive chef at Santa Monica’s The Penthouse. The Citizen space remains unchanged: A lounge-y, planter-lined patio with cushioned seating surrounds a fire pit and umbrella-shaded tables face Cañon Drive, while the interior sports sunburst tile work, booths, colorful rugs, and decorative ropes.
Start with flaky biscuits sporting crisp, lacquered crusts and central pockets of yellow Cheddar. Each pair comes with whipped chive butter and smoked honey. We’d never seen a sandwich with a wingspan before, but that’s exactly what you’ll find with Citizen’s sizable chicken schnitzel, pictured above, which stretches well beyond the bun. The juicy, pounded chicken is crisp-coated and supports Brussels sprout slaw, bread and butter pickles, and spicy mustard in a soft brioche bun. For mains, a rosy, skin-on slab of salmon, pictured below, comes with squiggles of brown butter spaetzle tossed with vegetable hash that included zucchini and asparagus. Tangy beurre blanc helped to further balance that plate.

Citizen serves ambitious cocktail program is inspired by the ’60s. Teetotalers can enjoy their vintage sodas: Two different egg creams include a classic version with chocolate syrup, or a Santa Monica egg cream with house-made coconut cream, lime and pineapple juices, and soda water. The garnish consists of a chewy dried pineapple chip balanced on a striped, eco-friendly paper straw. New meets old and form meets function, here in Beverly Hills.

Salmon (photo: Joshua Lurie)

hours

Dinner: Mon–Sat 5 PM–10 PM
Lunch: Mon–Fri noon–3 PM
Closed Sunday

price range

$15 (turkey sandwich) to $29 (steak frites)
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