Roasted sunchoke at Ferris (credit: Noah Fecks)

Eat This Now

By Kat Odell

With vibrant and bountiful summer flavors slipping into memory, now is the time to enjoy the seasonal shift, as root veggies and heartier produce hit markets. In the last few years, Manhattan restaurants have embraced a more seasonal-minded approach to cookery, which ultimately yields plates packed with extra flavor. Here are seven of the city’s best new engagements that take the market-driven route—just remember, seasonality is fleeting, so try these dishes before they vanish.

Roasted sunchoke at Ferris
Good-looking NoMad newcomer MADE hotel is home to Ferris, Manhattan’s newest seasonal engagement that culls flavors around the world. Greg Proechel, previously of hip downtown number Le Turtle, commands inspired plates here, all hinged on market availability. While sunchokes may be familiar as a side, Proechel steams then roasts them into an entrée-size portion, pictured above, flavored with a house-made scallion miso, and studded with blood orange for acidity and balance.
Neighborhood: NoMad MAP

Black Truffle Explosion at The Aviary NYC (credit: Sarah and Allen Hemberger)

Black Truffle Explosion at The Aviary NYC
Perhaps you tried the Black Truffle Explosion at Chicago’s Alinea, or maybe you caught the dish’s story on Chef Grant Achatz’s episode of the Netflix hit, Chef’s Table. But when Achatz recently expanded his vintage spirit–minded bar The Office—tucked within his more progressive drinking engagement The Aviary—from Chicago to New York’s Mandarin Oriental, New York hotel, he dropped his signature bite onto the opening menu of The Aviary NYC. With black truffles currently in season, now is the best time to try this ravioli riff that’s filled with a liquid black truffle center. Pro tip: This is a one-biter.
Neighborhood: Columbus Circle MAP

Gnudi at La Pecora Bianca Midtown
Bright, seasonal Italian player La Pecora Bianca has a new, more spacious Midtown home that’s twice the size of its NoMad original. This all-day eatery also follows a seasonal mantra with an Italian twist, from veggie preps to pasta to protein. Drop in for fall-flavored gnudi, made with a mix of cheeses—Parmesan plus both sheep and cow’s milk ricotta—then tossed with butter-sautéed seasonal squash and Swiss chard stems… then garnished with breadcrumbs.
Neighborhood: Midtown MAP

Brussels Sprouts at Villanelle
For those still bemoaning the loss of Midtown’s fine-dining fixture Betony, note that much of the restaurant’s staff has moved over to recently-minted New American eatery Villanelle. Situated just a stone’s throw from the Union Square Greenmarket, Villanelle embraces local and seasonal ingredients, as found in the restaurant’s excellent Brussels sprouts salad. Rather than roasting those baby cabbages like pretty much everyone else, executive chef Nick Licata macerates a mix of diced Brussels and their whole leaves in white balsamic vinegar, then throws in roasted cashews and crumbled clothbound Cheddar.
Neighborhood: Greenwich Village MAP

Barracuda at Shoji at 69 Leonard (credit: Evan Sung)

Barracuda at Shoji at 69 Leonard
For the next six months or so, chef Derek Wilcox is commanding Shoji at 69 Leonard's micro space with a 16 to 18 course kappo-style counter menu, rife with hyper-seasonal Japanese ingredients. Don’t miss the grilled Japanese barracuda–also known as Kamasu–served beside rare wild-foraged Maine matsutake mushrooms. For an acid hit, squeeze its accompanying sudachi wedge atop.
Neighborhood: Tribeca MAP

Persian dumplings at Mimi Cheng’s
For the month of October, hip dumpling depot Mimi Cheng’s has collaborated with LA-based sisters Tara and Roxy Sowlaty on a seasonal Persian meatball dumpling. Inspired by their mother’s recipe, this special blends pasture-raised beef with turmeric, split peas, basmati rice, dried plums, and assorted herbs, delivered in a petit package that’s decorated with yogurt, mint, crispy shallots, and a saffron-infused tomato sauce.
Neighborhood: East Village, Nolita MAP

Seasonal sides at Caffe Marchio
Beloved New York restaurateur Danny Meyer has been crushing on Italy lately, with not one but two new Italian projects opening next-door—and back to back. His more casual daytime effort, as compared to newbie wine bar Vini e Fritti, Caffe Marchio manifests as a vintage-feeling Roman coffee bar that also serves lunch and aperitivo into the early evening. Beyond a slew of great Italian pastries, you’ll find an ever-changing roster of veggie-focused sides that work well beside a tramezzini, or simply on their own. Mushrooms with garlic, parsley, and lemon is a bit more familiar, while carrots with pistachio and sage transport you directly to central Italy.
Neighborhood: Flatiron MAP

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