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The Morris (credit: Leo Gong)

Welcome to the new wave of house-made charcuterie in SF

By Marcia Gagliardi

San Francisco restaurants like Perbacco and flour + water have been turning out house-made salumi and charcuterie for some time, but a new wave of chefs in the Bay Area have taken to the craft lately—good news for lovers of all things meaty. Here are some new charcuterie and salumi selections you’re going to want in your life. You hear that? These platters are calling your name.

The Morris
Some of the best of the current SF salumi comes from Gavin Schmidt, who butchers whole hogs weekly at The Morris, and uses as much as he can of every last bit in his charcuterie program. Selections rotate frequently, but his fennel salami and chorizo with a touch of dried anchovy powder are standouts, as is his rabbit terrine, which is given a little something extra—hello, pork fat and Chartreuse. Don’t mess around; the platter of five for $20 is the way to go.
Neighborhood: Potrero Hill MAP

Bar Agricole
Want to know a meaty secret? You can now order the superlative salumi from sister restaurant Trou Normand on Bar Agricole’s menu! Butcher Evan Blackburn is known for sourcing top-of-line Mangalitsa pork (from Dinner Bell Farm) for their charcuterie, which they butcher in-house, and has such sweet and creamy fat. Bar Agricole’s chef Seth Stowaway puts together a sampler board of four for $28, with selections like the fennel-studded finocchiona, lonza, and unique creations like pork salami with dill and lemon. Built to enjoy over a cocktail.
Neighborhood: SoMa MAP

Jardinière
Chef de cuisine Audie Golder has been changing things up in the charcuterie program at Jardinière. What used to have a more traditional flavor profile is getting an infusion of new ideas—think wrapping pancetta in kombu sheets and curing it. Golder is also using leftover kimchee juice to add a little something to the country pâté, which he wraps in Savoy cabbage leaves, places in a terrine, and cooks off, and the bright color of the rim of their lonza is from some saffron they added to the curing process.
Neighborhood: Hayes Valley MAP


Almanac (credit: © tablehopper.com)

Almanac Beer Taproom
One bite of the Sichuan coppa at Almanac Beer’s Taproom and it’s apparent someone really knows what they’re doing here. That someone is chef Chad Arnold, previously of Dopo/Adesso—so you know he knows his cured meats. The finocchietto is creamy and fatty and full of flavor, and the Mangalitsa loin they serve is cured with local Aedan koji. Expect the offerings to change up often, but count on getting the mixed salumi (three) for just $15. There are also pork rillettes ($6) and country pork pâté ($9), and both come with great accompaniments. It’s up to you to figure out which beers you want to pair with them.
Neighborhood: Mission MAP

Tawla
For a unique—and not an Italian or Franco-centric spin on charcuterie—chef Joe Magidow is making some interesting Mediterranean selections at Tawla. There’s bastirma, lean lamb or beef cured with sumac, chile, and fenugreek that’s air-dried; and louzo, which is like a Greek version of Italian coppa—it’s a whole pork neck muscle cured with bay, citrus, and juniper, then air-dried for a couple weeks. Then there’s the carrot appetizer, which right now features fatty little nubs of awarma, fatty lamb cured with fenugreek. Also in rotation is Tawla’s version of the classic Greek loukaniko sausage, dry-cured with anise and citrus.
Neighborhood: Mission MAP

The Alembic
Chef David Faro is creating quite the ambitious charcuterie program at this Upper Haight cocktail haven, including the likes of a pastrami-spiced capicola, spicy and spreadable ’nduja, and chorizo. Get a board for $25—loaded up with a full selection of sliced-to-order meats—and you’ll have plenty of favorites to discover.
Neighborhood: Upper Haight MAP


The Alembic

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