Mile End Delicatessen

Mile End

New York is not in the habit of taking culinary cues from Canada. (Sorry, Susur Lee.) But when Mile End opened, one year ago, a mere whiff of their fatty oak-smoked slabs of Montreal-style beef brisket (pastrami’s Québécois cousin) made five boroughs worth of deli meisters green with envy. Much like its signature smoked-meat sandwiches, the tiny deli is jam-packed. Walls are mounted with accordion swing-lamps that shine down on three benches and five swivel barstools. But good things come in small packages, and this one cranks out big Jewish-Canadian food, locally sourced and curated by co-owner and former Montrealer Noah Bernamoff, who was homesick for the stuff after moving to New York for law school. He’s hired a coterie of hip and curt servers to dole out fragrant bowls of poutine—the classic style and a meaty version of the Quebec “junk food” obsession—with the obligatory fries carefully ladled with homemade mushroom gravy and spiked with Silvery Moon cheddar curds from Maine and, if you wish, fatty cubes of smoked brisket. A small tureen of velvety bloodred borscht is spooned with a generous dollop of sour cream and a fresh sprig of dill, while an overflowing monkey dish of crunchy red cabbage slaw will likely stain something before your meal is over.

sweet seats

The only thing trickier than squeezing into the “sweetheart” window seat—so close to Hoyt Street’s bike lane you could almost relay a jar of pickles to a passing cyclist—is getting out of it after gorging on frites, gravy, and fatty cuts of brisket.

chew on this

Mile End is one of Montreal’s hipper areas, home to famous Wilensky’s deli. Noah Bernamoff’s grandparents grew up in the neighborhood, and Bernamoff and his wife and Mile End partner, Rae Cohen, lived there together.

hours

Mon.–Tues. 8 AM–4:30 PM;
Wed.–Fri. 8 AM–10 PM; 12 noon–8 PM;
Sat.–Sun. 10 AM–10 PM
closed daily 4 PM–5:30 PM

price range for menu items

$6 (Chazzer breakfast sandwich) to $16 (smoked
brisket sandwich)

hours

breakfast: Mon-Fri 8 AM-11:30 AM
lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30AM-4 PM
dinner: Mon-Fri 5:30 PM-11 PM
brunch: Sat-Sun 10 AM-4 PM
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