Bouchon

Bouchon

By Mika Takeuchi

Getting into Thomas Keller’s French Laundry in Napa can be nigh impossible, which is perhaps why the famous chef opened Bouchon, not too many miles away, to give everyone else a chance to sample his sublime cuisine. Now, lucky us, Keller’s new Bouchon 90210 is equally accessible and his food just as sublime—refined French fare that emulates the legendary little bistros of Lyon—les bouchons. A juicy roasted chicken with a perfectly crisp, golden-brown skin, and a prime flatiron steak frites, topped with savory caramelized shallots and served with russet potato frites cooked in peanut oil, are the kinds of plates that convince you only the French should be allowed to cook in the first place. Shellfish platters are visual and gustatory extravaganzas; profiteroles have never had a better pairing of warm puff pastry and vanilla ice cream with chocolate sauce. Not surprisingly, Bouchon Beverly Hills is a rather elegant space, with a grand staircase and Magritte-inspired artwork by Paulin Paris. It’s fancy beyond the dreams of most mom-and-pop bouchons back in France, and may be the perfect hybrid of Lyonnais authenticity, Yountville aesthetics and Beverly Hills glamour.

sweet seats

On a warm night, forsake the grandeur inside for dining under the stars on the tranquil outdoor terrace.

chew on this

Bouchon happens to be the French word for cork, and there’s no question how the bistros of Lyon, on the edge of one of the most prolific wine-producing regions in the world, came to acquire that nickname. Bouchon the restaurant celebrates occasionally with cork-shaped Valrhona brownies as a dessert special.

hours

lunch: Mon.–Fri. 11:30 AM–2:30 PM
dinner: Mon.–Sun. 5:30 PM–10:30 PM

price range

$18.95 (croque madame) to $45 (steak Bouchon)
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