Little Next Door

Little Next Door

By Dani Fisher

Floral accents and rattan chairs give it away: A dream of your favorite Parisian bistro. However, you are not at a boîte in the quartier latin but at Little Next Door, a Gallic Neverland for local Francophiles, where dinner can—and should—take three hours, always includes a few robust Cabernets, and also delivers big plates of salty frites. Executive chef T. Nicolas Peter’s little sister to his much touted Little Door (next door, of course) is a café and bistro in one—with morning coffee and pâtisserie, an extensive sandwich menu at lunch and a classic bistro spread for dinner, when soft candlelight illuminates stained glass and makes the wine bottles flicker as they climb up the racks on the walls. Peter’s duck foie gras is rustic, earthy and served with a Port reduction that may in fact be ambrosia, or at least as close as we mortals can get. The skirt steak with peppercorn sauce—his iteration of steak frites—is beyond tender, heading in the no-knife direction, and rich in the elusive flavor of umami. And if that ever seems a little too heavy, sparkling fresh salads —Greek, Niçoise, Cobb—bring things back to the Kingdom of California.

sweet seats

Sit on the patio, under the foliage-laced canopy, or gaze at the wine-lined walls from a cozy corner table inside; you really can’t go wrong.

chew on this

The Little Door and Little Next Door both deliver. It’s a rare gift to be able to serve such authentic food in your own dining room without lifting a finger. (Well, assuming you have voice control on your phone.)

hours

lunch: Mon.–Thurs. 11 AM–4 PM
dinner: Mon.–Sun. 6 PM–11 PM
brunch: Fri.–Sun. 8 AM–4 PM
no reservations

price range

$18 (broccoli and wild mushroom fettuccine) to $24 (roasted saffron salmon); $32 three-course prix fixe
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