Birch
 
 

Birch branches out from the Far East to the Middle East to the West Coast

By Joshua Lurie

Hollywood—home to fashionable ultra-lounges, mixed-use construction sites, and lingering splashes of grit—now has a culinary beacon in Birch. Brendan Collins, who found success at Waterloo & City, has a new hit with this globally inspired restaurant that was named for the trees he grew up near in Nottingham, England.

What should you expect? To start, plump, highly slurp-able Cotuit oysters from Massachusetts, freshly shucked and served on the half-shell in silky lemongrass velouté with pickled peppers. For contrast, Jonah crab cornets star sweet, pulled Atlantic crab, creamy avocado, grapefruit, and cilantro in whisper-thin cones.

The Monkfish tikka masala brings along rice crackers, punchy lime pickle, and a tangy tikka sauce that packs a solid kick. The smoky charred octopus joins blistered shishito peppers, chimichurri, and mizuna on a stylish plate rooted in red pepper hummus and adorned with black dots of squid ink aïoli.

Rabbit baklava is a savory twist on a Middle Eastern classic, with pulled rabbit meat (confited in duck fat), firm white beans, and pistachios all wrapped with phyllo. This brick rests on tangy Persian yogurt with rabbit breast and rack on top, along with carrots, a pitted date, pickled mustard seeds, and greens.

For dessert, an oozing peanut butter spring roll with a caramelized coat joins cocoa soil, Scotch butter, chocolate mousse, caramelized banana, and peanut butter ice cream to deliver a decadent knockout punch.

hours

Mon–Fri 6 PM–11 PM; Sat 5 PM–11 PM; Sun 6 PM– 10 PM
Lunch: Tue–Fri noon–2:30 PM
Sunday Roast: noon–4 PM

price range

$6 (za’atar flatbread) to $32 (pork shank)
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