Doma
 
 

Chef Dustin Trani deftly spikes modern Italian with Asian nuances

By Keyla Vasconcellos

On the surface, Doma in Beverly Hills has all the marking of a welcoming yet refined traditional Italian restaurant, but underneath the elegant wrapping lies an even more welcome surprise. Dustin Trani, fourth-generation chef from the distinguished San Pedro family restaurant J. Trani, has paired up with Sonja Perencevic of WeHo mainstay Dan Tana to pursue a unique vision: infusing Italian dishes with the flavors of Asian cuisine.

Inside the airy, minimalistic space, the atmosphere is warm and the energy is palpable—pizzas are slung with gusto, cocktails shaken with vigor, and guests welcomed with enthusiasm. Settle in with one of their new summer cocktails; jasmine tea–infused vodka and fresh-pressed blood orange juice evokes a grown-up revision of childhood Popsicle memories. Then, start with the warm sourdough bread, a perfect prelude to an exceptional meal.

Chef Trani began developing his unique skill set while working in his family’s restaurant, and expanded on it after traveling in Asia. Dishes like the salmon carpaccio, incorporating coconut air for sweetness and cashews for crunch and saltiness, bring to mind the flavors of Thailand. Naughtier still, Trani’s innovative fried tempura shishito pepper appetizer with sweet chile oil and feta is a refined version of the old Jack in the Box jalapeño popper, hopped up on culinary steroids.

Demanding pizza connoisseurs won’t be disappointed, either—certainly not after trying the house-made mozzarella and sausage pizza, coming out on a crispy crust drizzled with brown butter and sage. And pasta lovers will delight in the mascarpone agnolotti with a 48-hour veal reduction and a hint of garlic, Parmesan, and truffle. For a sweet treat, there’s the velvety cheesecake, topped with tart passion fruit sorbet, sweet mango, and pineapple, then sprinkled with a graham cracker crumble to end the meal on a harmonious note.

hours

Mon–Sat 11:30 AM–10 PM; Sun 5:30 PM–10 PM

price range

$9 (shishito peppers) to $29 (grilled 8 oz New York steak)
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