Four Belly

Four Belly

By Matt Kirouac

If most “weird” foods were as tasty as they are at Four Belly, Survivor would seem a lot more doable. This Asian street food–inspired newcomer sports a sprawling menu that treads between the familiar—gyoza, egg rolls—and the zany—fried caterpillar, frog legs. The latter, of course, is what really makes this place special—Four Belly not only boldly showcases authentic Asian street grub, but also proves these items can be delicious when prepared well. Once you get over the neurosis and take the plunge, you’ll find that fried caterpillars are plump, crispy morsels with a mild meaty flavor. Octopus takes a unique form here in takoyaki, grilled octopus balls enrobed in dough—a kind of saline hushpuppy. Sweet corn skewers splashed with coconut milk are Asia’s answer to Mexican elotes, and Four Belly also does a bang-up job with plump Thai-issan sausages. For something heartier, look to the ramen—specifically the tom yum, brimming with meltingly tender pork loin, mushrooms, bamboo, egg, and fishcake.

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eye for design
There’s just something about wooden walls and Buddha bellies that elicits a zen-like sigh of relaxation. Four Belly feels more like an Asian dojo than the streets of Asia, with soothing warm tones throughout, a golden-hued jovial Buddha figure emblazoned on the wall, and intricate tree detailing running along the seats. A raised area in the front of the restaurant feels like a throne for a few lucky diners.

Asian expertise
This isn’t the first restaurant go-round for Four Belly owner Tony Kammaty. The owner of three Nori Sushi spots in the city, he is well versed in the ways of Asian restaurants, though Four Belly marks his first foray into Asian street food as a concept.

decibels
Low

hours

Mon noon–9 PM; Tue–Thu noon–11 PM; Fri–Sat noon–midnight; Sun noon–9 PM

price range

$8 (oyakodon) to $12 (moo ping)
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