You wonder if the frizzy vegetation in the middle of the fried artichokes might be parsley, and the waiter confirms, “Yes, fried parsley, but don’t try that at home.” Celeste not only performs the difficult trick of making parsley taste good but also renders it pretty on the plate. Same with pastas, pizzas, salads and a licorice-and-mint gelato—all perfect, all inexpensive. You could stroll past this signless place a thousand times and assume it was just another West Side coffee shop. Inside, though, it’s as sweet and warm as a Neapolitan spring. Popular, too. (Nobody walks, waltzes, or otherwise gets in after seven without a wait.) The staff is just as agreeable, from the guy spinning the pizza dough to the waiter who slams the bill on your table with the words “No rush,” more a command than an option. Celeste. Heavenly, indeed.


Mon-Thu: 5 PM-11PM
Fri: 5PM-11:30 PM
Sat: 12 PM-11:30 PM
Sun: 12 PM-10:30 PM