Good Move
 
 

A Greenpoint hangout with globally inspired tacos and mezcal galore

By James Oliver Cury

On a recent Friday evening, a couple drove their 1991 Toyota Camry through a largely Polish section of Greenpoint, Brooklyn, stopping only when Google Maps announced they’d arrived at their destination—a nondescript corner bar with a red-brick facade. “Good Move,” the app exclaimed. The passenger wondered how the driver got the app to be so conversational. “That’s the name of the place—and they serve Mexican food.”

This used to be a local hangout—Lucky Luna—until it changed owners last November. It remains casual as can be; there’s no host and there are no servers. You seat yourself at one of just a few tables or along wooden counter space that hugs the wall—or at the L-shaped bar, where the lone bartender takes orders. A quick scan of the two orange menus reveals their passions: mezcal (the list features 45 options, in addition to flights), craft cocktails (like a negroni that uses mezcal instead of gin), and straightforward Mexican fare with a few twists.

The brawny Kimchee Burrito, for example, comes wrapped in tin foil and packed with rice, seared mushrooms, jalapeños, scallions, and your choice of fried fish, steak, or vegetables. This torpedo shares the plate with pickled radish and a slightly spicy ginger-soy aïoli.
While the menu offers a few healthy-sounding, Mexican ingredient–driven variations on salads and rice bowls, the tacos are where the action is. The fried fish option gets the nod over the seared fish, not only because crunchy fried food always tastes great with booze, but because the dish melds sweet mango and pineapple with savory scallion, cilantro, and cotija—and just a hint of heat from cayenne-ancho seasoning and chipotle mayo. The crispy black-bean fritter tacos are surprisingly flavorful, too—a gift not just for vegans.

Tipplers take note: During happy hour (5 to 7 p.m.), margaritas (including frozen ones) are just $8. More adventurous types can order “bartender’s choice,” which this place backs up with an appealing money-back guarantee: “If you don’t like it, we’ll drink it.”

hours

Mon–Thu 5 PM–11 PM; Fri–Sun noon–11 PM

price range

$7 (2 crispy black bean fritter tacos) to $14.50 (3 ginger-marinated steak tacos)
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