L'Assiette Steak Frites
 
 

A cozy slice of Paris on Melrose

Like a great band with a big song that everyone knows, L’Assiette is easily and often hailed for its main attraction. The atmospheric spot on Melrose, with the red awning, white marble bar, and wood-paneled walls, does create the perfect set-up for the quintessential French Brasserie experience: An impeccable yet quite affordable sous-vide steak frites. But despite the seemingly singular obsession, the menu here has always covered a lot more ground, and the fact that chef Jacques Fiorentino and crew have built up a repertoire that’s positively brimming with variety is nothing new to dedicated fans.

What is new is this four-course prix-fixe menu for BBE subscribers, presenting a thoroughly immersive take on the chef’s ideal meal—the greatest hits. For starters, bites run from bacon-wrapped dates stuffed with fresh goat cheese to seared foie gras. If your hunger is more insistent, heartier options include the truffled mac and cheese—made with real truffles, this turns the familiar, comforting dish up to 11—or the substantial charcuterie platter. To follow up, the second course offers your choice of the popular sorrel soup, or a little gem salad.

Next comes the moment of truth, and you wouldn’t be faulted if you feel like your mind is already made up: steak frites. L’Assiette’s namesake dish starts with Fiorentino’s particular choice of cut—the coulotte. Tender and packed with flavor, this chef’s favorite is cooked sous vide for optimal texture and perfect temperature throughout, then topped with a “secret” sauce. To complete the plate, hand-cut Kennebec potatoes are prepared using a meticulous eight-step, 24-hour process that results in the perfect fry, with a golden crisp exterior and soft center.
But hold it now—the decision isn’t actually that easy. You’ll also have to consider contenders like the steak’s surf alternative, poisson frites, plus a mouthwatering poulet forestier (chicken breasts stuffed with French ham and mushrooms). And last but frankly most is the seasonal 24-hour cassoulet, served in a tureen, with duck breast, lamb gigot, culotte beef, Andouille sausage, and garlic sausage, just for starters.

The simple fact is you can’t go wrong, and any of these will pair perfectly with a glass of wine from the well-curated list. To wrap things up in a sweet way, L’Assiette offers two distinct and equally irresistible desserts: the triple fudge brownie for the chocolate-or-bust members at your table, and Marianne’s amaretto cake, for everyone else. If you're lucky, you’ll negotiate with your date to share both—a plan which hopefully extends to the entire menu, since high-profile hits notwithstanding, you’re sure to leave here hooked by some of L’Assiette’s deeper cuts.

BBE exclusive 4-course prix-fixe menu ($38)

first course—your choice of one
Charcuterie platter
Dattes farcies au chèvre frais
Truffle mac and cheese
Seared foie gras (Add $12)

second course—your choice of one
Sorrel soup
Little gem salad

third course—your choice of one
The flagship steak frites
Poulet forestier
Poisson frites
24-Cassoulet

fourth course—your choice of one
Triple fudge brownie
Marianne’s amaretto cake

hours

5:30 PM–10 PM daily

price range

$8 (house sorrel soup) to $32 (poisson frites)
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