Le Perigord

Photo: Maria Yagoda

The quintessential French experience in NYC

By Maria Yagoda

Le Périgord is the kind of place where you host friends when they come into town. People propose here. Lifelong couples come, every week, and sit in the same salmon booth flanking the dining room, its tables full of roses in full bloom. “I’ve never heard a bad thing about the place,” says a woman who’s lived in Turtle Bay for 68 years, while standing outside the Michelin-starred restaurant. Le Périgord serves improbably excellent French food in a warm, old-world environment.

To enter here is to breathe a sigh of relief; you are sure to be taken care of, spoiled even. The service is attentive and decidedly French, as it has been since the Briguet family opened the doors back in 1964. Over fifty years later, owner Georges Briguet still welcomes diners at the door, jovially speaking snippets of Français at you whether you nod with understanding or freeze with fear.
The polished menu is full of longtime favorites, with the occasional departure providing contemporary flair. The flavorful lamb loin, cooked precisely as you order it (a rare feat), is transcendent, the fat slices circling around a silky pile of artichokes. All the plating, for that matter, is architectural and thoughtful: a crab cake is served loaf-style—maybe we should have done this all along?—and seems to float atop a rich tarragon sauce. The dish, more crab than cake, is perfectly moist and juicy, a far cry from the standard crispy, bready patty topped with some iteration of aïoli.

And the dessert cart—mon dieu, the dessert cart—is a memory one can barely conjure after the fact, just a blur of meringue and berries and custard and divinely smooth Grand Marnier mousse. One bite of the sublime blueberry tart, decked in plump, shiny berries, and you’ll be convinced, if just for a moment, that you’re Marie Antoinette.

BBE Exclusive prix fixe dinner ($60 per person)

choice of one:
House-made foie gras with Sauterne aspic
Soup du jour
Crab cake with a sauce from Marseille
Zucchini blossoms with truffle sauce

choice of one
Magret du Canard with orange sauce
Grilled salmon, lemon saffron sauce, and Provençal style vegetables
Loin filet of lamb au jus, baby artichokes, and carrots
Bay scallop and Parmesan risotto

Dessert Cart


Dinner: 5:30 PM–9:45 PM daily
Lunch: Mon–Fri noon–3 PM

price range

$28 (roasted chicken) to $48 (sole with meunière sauce)