Los Balcones del Peru

Los Balcones del Peru

By Joshua Lurie

Last year, Jorge Rodriguez, chef-brother Walter, and their family took the concept at their restaurant—a showcase of Lima’s signature interior balconies—to another level, with a modern redesign that replaced the mounted faux miniatures with a photo of that city’s historic colonial core. They also added a sleek, brick-backed area that draws a young crowd and—even better—a host of blackboard specials. No matter what you order, though, each meal begins with a metal pail of sweet potato chips accompanied by piquant cilantro-flecked aji verde—a nice on-the-house greeting. The native Peruvian grain quinoa appears in a salad of asparagus, bacon bits, and maracuyá and sesame seed dressing—all sharing a bowl with an oozing poached egg and starchy, hominy-like choclo. Peru’s mildy hot, yellow aji amarillo sauce blankets the silky sea bass (tiradito), and a creamy shrimp chowder (chupe de camarones) also comes with a bit of a kick. If you want to stay Peruvian to the end, by all means order the mazamorra morada—rice pudding made with an Andean grain called kiwicha, enriched with dried apricots, raisins, and prunes—that’s sweetened by a jam-like rendition of the purple-corn drink chicha morada.

sweet seats

The best table is the round brown booth in the southwest corner, which seats six and offers clear views of the entire restaurant. An L-shaped bar provides ready access to beer, wine, and televised sports.

chew on this

The final stage of Los Balcones’ redesign includes the introduction of ceviche, with the seafood appearing under glass as in a sushi bar. It should be open early next year.

hours

Mon–Thu 11 AM–10 PM; Fri 11 AM–11 PM; Sat 4 PM–11 PM;
Sun 1 PM–9 PM

price range

$14 (pollo saltado) to $18 (seco de carne)
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