Market Table

Market Table

By Marisa Robertson-Textor

There are hotspots, and there are restaurants serving high-quality comfort food where you can kick back and relax. How do you find that elusive frisson that separates a night out from a night in—a scene without the snooty attitude? Enter Market Table, which since the day it opened five years ago has managed to make its patrons feel equal parts neighborhood regular, minor celebrity, and beloved youngest grandchild of an Italian nonna, who worries you’re still hungry.

Proceed directly to the duck confit, served with a creamy poached egg and duck craclings over bitter greens whose tarragon-mustard dressing cuts nicely through the salt and fat. Next: lamb or short ribs? Either one makes for an almost embarrassingly generous plate of perfectly rendered, fork-tender meat suspended in layers of flavor (the Fontina fondue and potatoes on which the short ribs perch will have you rethinking your next dinner party). Light-weights should consider sharing the lamb—when the half-portions arrive, you’ll swear the kitchen sent out two orders by mistake—and throwing in a side of candy-like spaghetti squash fragrant with currants and capers. The requisite chocolate terrine is as light as air, just a few gossamer forkfuls of terrine, caramel corn, and pistachio that will melt away before you’ve quite realized what’s happened.

the scene

If this many architects and graphic designers are eating out again, either the economy really is picking up or they’ve heard a rumor that the producers for Top Design are scouting here. And at least one model wants to start microfinancing projects for Peruvian textile workers “as soon as the madness of fashion week is over.”

side dish

on the stereo
Rapture, Blondie
Under Pressure, David Bowie and Queen
Goodbye to You, Patty Smyth

overheard
“And that is why Europe is going to hell.”

decibels
Medium

hours

Lunch: Mon–Fri 11:30 AM–2:30 PM
Dinner: Mon–Thu 5 PM–11 PM, Fri 5 PM–12 noon; Sat 5:30 PM–12 midnight; Sun 5 PM–10 PM
Brunch: Sat–Sun 10:30 AM–2:30 PM

price range

$22 (pan-roasted chicken) to $36 (charred lamb t-bones)
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