OddFellows Ice Cream Co.
 
 

Ice cream guru Sam Mason continues to blow minds with each new concept

By Maria Yagoda

This experimental ice cream shop's flagship Brooklyn location opened on Kent Avenue in 2013, quickly establishing its wacky dessert cred by offering appropriately novel concoctions, like chorizo caramel swirl and miso butterscotch cherry. Three years later, their menu remains as unexpected as the space remains reflexively old-timey—all tall stools, broad counter, and retro memorabilia.

Ice cream genius and former wd~50 pastry chef Sam Mason continues to surprise here, and expertly so: current flavors include the likes of coconut kaffir lime leaf, pineapple manchego, buttermilk blueberry honey, Mexican chocolate, sprinkles, and olive oil, running the gamut from no-nonsense classic to how-has-this-never-existed.

A single scoop is mystical as is, but what the predominately mustachioed clientele return for, again and again, is Mason's way with bringing together low-key creations and high-concept execution. Take the s'mores ($7): a layered “sandwich” of smoked marshmallow ice cream, marshmallow sauce, Graham cracker soil, and thin chocolate cookies. Or the “Odd Pocket” ($8), which embodies all that’s good about a Hot Pocket—namely, just the idea—while achieving what Hot Pockets never could: ecstasy. The signature warmed-up ice cream sandwich layers house-made ice cream between fluffy brioche bread, all topped with crunchy churro crispies.
Of course, Mason is as restless as he is inventive, so instead of sitting on a steady menu of flavors, OddFellows is keeping things fresh with their Passport program. Each month brings a bevy of new blends that highlight the flavors of a different continent. Right now, that means you can sample North American specialties with the sweet potato and marshmallow, spiced pumpkin cheesecake, and Mexican spiced chocolate, while December promises to explore the tastes of Europe. Frequent flyers can get their OddFellows passports stamped with each visit, and reap rewards like a free scoop, T-shirt, and more.

You could say that eating desserts in the year 2016—a year of puffy cones and skyscraper milkshakes and teardrop cakes—evokes the core truism of looking for an apartment in New York: You always sacrifice something, be it size, neighborhood, or price. Likewise, seeking out dessert can often feel like weighing the competing factors of novelty, flavor, and price. But at OddFellows, the only sacrifice to even consider is the impact on your digestive health. (Lactaid tablets are available.)

hours

Mon–Thu 1 PM–11 PM; Fri 1 PM–midnight; Sat noon–midnight; Sun: noon–11 PM

price range

$4 (single scoop) to $8 (Odd Pocket)
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