Ohana Poké Co.

Chef Eric Park’s poké packs a punch

By Joshua Lurie

The motto “Ohana means family”—a famous line from the Disney movie Lilo & Stitch—stands out on a sea blue wall at this Silver Lake spot. Though the family behind the counter, Chef Eric Park and wife Miriam, may not be mad scientists of animated sci-fi fame, they have managed to perform an extraordinary feat in this very place: transforming a pig into a fish. After the success of the Downtown location of Ohana Poké Co., the Parks closed their restaurant Black Hogg here in Silver Lake to yield a two-fold rebirth, seating a new outpost of the Hawaiian seafood joint right next to their sandwich shop, Soppressata.

The newly designed space features light wood tables, black cushioned seats, a counter fronted by grey and yellow tiles, and bamboo lanterns, while a whiteboard triptych showcases the restaurant’s mix-and-match menus. Your poké journey begins here, with a choice of a rice base—either heirloom white or brown—or olive oil–massaged kale, if you’re ducking carbs.

For the heart of the matter, tuna enjoys a variety of preparations, including soy-based shoyu, spicy mayo, or chile-pineapple, while braised Spanish octopus with a Korean chile base, salmon with sweet unagi sauce, shell-free garlic prawns, and soy ginger tofu provide some enticing alternatives. No matter what you go with, you can expect edamame, crushed wasabi peas, scallion ribbons, and furikake to tie it together.

Complimentary sides like wakame seaweed salad, crunchy kimchi cucumbers, or ponzu glass noodles round out the texture, and crunchy masago, tiny orange roe from the capelin fish, or creamy fresh-shucked avocado kick it up a notch for a mere pittance.

If you’re unafraid to really break with tradition, the Pokerito is a new poké burrito that wraps your choice of seafood, rice, wasabi peas, avocado, yuzu cream, and ponzu glass noodles in a nori-lined cilantro-jalapeño tortilla.

Extras like chips, shrimp chips, Spam (or tofu) musubi, and mochi ice cream all vie for that last bit of your appetite. To drink, skip the soda in favor of a seasonal aguas fresca or Hawaiian volcanic water to further heighten your taste of the islands. Stitch would approve.

Photo credit: Joshua Lurie

hours

Mon–Sat 11 AM–9 PM
Closed Sunday

price range

$8.95 (Ono; small) to $15.95 (Grindz; very big)
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