Osteria Morini
 
 

Soho meets Emilia-Romagna

By Hannah Howard

The cuisine of Emilia-Romagna, in northernmost Italy, is quite possibly the most glorious food in the universe. This is the land of prosciutto di Parma, syrupy balsamic vinegar, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and a dizzying variety of fresh, hand-made pastas. Chef Michael White pays homage to this impossible-not-to-love food at his accessible Soho restaurant Osteria Morini, replete with burnt-orange terra-cotta façade and wooden rafters imported from Italian farmhouses.

The space is cozy, but the food is where Osteria Morini shines. Chef White is famous for his house-made pasta, and one bite of his cappelletti ravioli, laced with butter and crunchy prosciutto and stuffed with ricotta and earthy truffle, will showcase why. Pillowy ricotta gnocchi, fresh with an herbaceous pesto and crunchy with toasted pine nuts, is another standout.
In case you don’t want to live on pasta alone, there’s an almost absurdly juicy dry-aged LaFrieda prime burger, topped with speck in a tomato crema, and taleggio cheese and served with a pile of Parmigiano onion rings. Anther secondi standout is the brick oven roasted chicken, arriving with perfectly crisp skin, accompanied by salsa verde for a bright kick.

The brunch dilemma—breakfast food or lunch eats?—is tough here. A gigantic pancake with maple mascarpone is hard to pass up, as are poached eggs with house-cured lox and luscious Hollandaise sauce. But the tender veal cutlet with bomba Calabrese aïoli and peppery arugula is hard to resist, too. Decisions, decisions. Whatever you end up ordering, sip a Bloody Mary or an Aperol mimosa in true Soho meets Emilia-Romagna style.

hours

Dinner: Mon 5 PM–11 PM; Tue–Thu 5 PM–10:30 PM; Fri–Sat 5 PM–11:30 PM; Sun 5 PM–10 PM
Lunch: Mon–Fri noon–3:30 PM
Brunch: Sat–Sun 11:30 AM–3:30 PM

price range

$16 (mozzarella panino) to $24 (hanger steak)
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