Paley
 
 

Old Hollywood glamour with modern global tastes

By Joshua Lurie

Hollywood has gone through a revival in recent years, and no address has seen a bigger transformation than Columbia Square. The longtime epicenter for CBS radio and TV operations now houses Viacom headquarters, a NeueHouse co-working space, and several restaurants. Offering a modern twist on classic dishes, Paley is named for CBS founder William Paley and honors Hollywood grandeur with its nouveau-retro concept.

The space features gold and wood accents, an open kitchen with marble counter, planter-lined patio, and potted succulents. Staffers strive for omotenashi, a Japanese hospitality sensibility rooted in selflessness, empathy, respect, and gratitude.

Executive sous chef Kori Sutton teamed with the Plan Do See restaurant group’s Japan-based corporate chef on Paley’s menu. The small plates pack big flavor, particularly the lobster mac and cheese. Ruffled, bell-shaped campanelle pasta is well-suited to the clingy sauce. A rich melt of Mornay and Cheddar blankets Maine lobster in a cast iron skillet. House-made breadcrumbs and Parmigiano-Reggiano form a crispy, golden crust.

Go bigger with the steak frites, a 12-ounce flatiron coated with chimichurri. The herbaceous slurry combines coriander, paprika, cilantro, onion, garlic, parsley, oregano, and olive oil. Each order comes with thick-cut, skin-on fries. Roasted Brussels sprouts seasoned with yellow curry and topped with bursting pomegranate seeds and sweet white raisins make a suitably full-flavored side.
Paley’s pastry chef was inspired by a Basque-style cheesecake on a trip to. Fluffy Philadelphia cream cheese is baked without a water bath, resulting in more color on the coat. A generous slab comes plated with tangy pomegranate syrup, granola, silky avocado ice cream, and melt-in-your-mouth meringue shards.

To drink, Paley has a varied program of wine, beer, and cocktails plus a thoughtful selection of beverages “without proof.” Check out the 60/40, an iced mocktail crafted with orange juice, vanilla bean, lemon juice, and club soda, garnished with orange peel—a riff on an orange creamsicle.

Hollywood glamour is clearly far from gone: During a recent visit, Dolly Parton walked past us on the patio in a white suit. Later, on the way back to our car, a woman walked by wearing a Dolly Parton concert T-shirt. It was a total Hollywood moment, which seems to happen pretty often in Columbia Square.

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    Lobster Mac & Cheese (photo: Joshua Lurie)
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    Steak Frites (photo: Joshua Lurie)
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    Brussels Sprouts (photo: Joshua Lurie)
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    Basque Style Cheesecake (photo: Joshua Lurie)

hours

Dinner: Monday–Saturday 5:30 PM–10 PM
Closed Sunday

price range

$18 (pappardelle Bolognese) to $44 (Aspen Ridge prime filet mignon)
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