RH at the Andaz West Hollywood

RH at the Andaz — "Riot House"

By Grace Jidoun

The days of trashed rooms and Jimmy Page half naked in the hallways are long gone at the old rock & roll Hyatt on the Strip, affectionately known as the Riot House in the 70s. Now part of the luxury Andaz chain, the sleek, upgraded hotel includes an equally sleek (and quite exquisite) restaurant, RH, a nod to the building’s past in name only. In fact, it’s the kind of place you don’t want to get drunk in—you might bump into a glass wall or get tangled in a shimmering mesh curtain. But showmanship is still alive and well here, with Chef Jorge Chicas flaunting his stuff—and it’s substantial stuff—in the massive open kitchen that displays the day’s ingredients in a shiny transparent pantry. When it comes to Southwestern cuisine rendered with French technique, Chicas goes for it with a Black Angus burger topped with foie gras and served with frites triple doused in duck fat. A cocotte of poached egg, foie gras, and wild mushrooms comes with crostini slathered in truffle butter. Even the roast chicken, with sublimely crisp skin and tender meat, is garnished with hearty chunks of lobster. Everything looks, tastes, and feels rich, except for the prices, which are surprisingly levelheaded for such great food.

sweet seats

Sink into one of the comfy curved booths, stacked with pillows, and you may not be able to get up after such a luscious meal.

chew on this

Executive Chef Jorge Chicas is now in charge. So far, the transition appears to be seamless.

hours

daily 6:30 AM–11 PM

price range

$20 (stir-fry vegetables) to $44 (10 oz. New York steak)
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