Sfoglia
 
 

Sfoglia—Murano and market chic over a big bowl of maccheroncini

By William Sertl

Put a flea-market chic trattoria across from the intellectual springboard of the 92nd Street Y and serve the kind of food we travel to Italy to find. Welcome to Sfoglia, serving great dishes amidst Soho-visits-the-UES décor. P.S. House-made Italian cookies, with an espresso so smooth it needs no sugar, might make you skip the lecture at the Y in favor of something, well, more romantic.

the crowd

Well-groomed East Siders who’ve just heard Mark Bittman on a panel at the Y and who still can’t decide whether to rent the same house in Montepulciano this summer or try something new in Umbria.

... on the side

eye on design
You can’t help notice the brushed concrete walls and pale pink, Murano-style chandeliers, which fill two lovely rooms where guests sit at sturdy antique kitchen tables complete with utility drawers. It’s just plain chic, no matter how you look at it.

if this place were a book and a movie, it would be
Under the Tuscan Sun, Room with a View, or anything with the word “villa” in it.

decibels
low

hours

Lunch: Tue–Sat12 noon–2:30 PM
Dinner: Tue–Sat 5:30 PM–10:30 PM;
Sun–Mon 5:30 PM–10 PM

price range

$24 (pasta with tomato sauce) to $32 (hanger steak)
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