Solomon & Kuff
 
 

Caribbean vibes on Riverside Drive

By Jasmine Moy

Two steps inside the doors of this West Harlem destination and the Caribbean spirit has completely overtaken your senses. With palm fronds scattered about, the sounds of steel drums hit your ears, and your thoughts start to drift to the beach. The feeling only grows as you order one of the rum drinks from the dizzying house selection—concoctions like the Bashment Punch. A brunch cocktail that you can order anytime, it delivers a sunny dose of rum, mango, and pineapple juices over ice. Meanwhile in the kitchen, chef Christopher Faulkner whips up a just-right island eating experience, with curries of various spiciness levels across the menu.

Start with the Tickler Toast, a thick sourdough slice, soaked with melted Tickler Cheddar. Jerk eggplant, deeply charred and served with a bright salad ringed with squash and pepitas for texture, is spicy, citrusy, soft, and crunchy all at once. While the grilled, herbed-stuffed whole porgy (pictured) feels pretty dang beachy, curry is the star here. In a flavorful roast goat stew, set inside a little phyllo cup as an appetizer and swathed with roasted cauliflower with deep fried crispy chickpeas as an entrée, each of these dishes provides a different variation on the definition of crave-worthy.

Settle in and explore the extensive rum menu—there are over 100 bottles—and maybe even order the rum crème brûlée just for consistency of purpose... and to delay going back outside, where the beach will unfortunately not be waiting for you.

hours

Dinner: Sun, Tue–Wed 5 PM–midnight; Thu–Sat 5 PM–2 AM
Brunch: Sat 11 AM–4 PM; Sun 11 PM–5 PM
Closed Monday

price range

$10 (rarebit tickler toast) to $27 (grilled stuffed whole porgy)
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